Slight breeze, fidgety fly, not quite sharp but getting there

[JBW]

[Sam W]

I think it is a great shot. I like the iridescent colors in the wings and the way you've cropped it. Well done Brian.

[Ndukes]

Nice one, Brian.

[JBW]

Nice one, Brian.

it's getting there

[Shadowman]

Nice shot.

[bnnrcn]

You are certainly getting there Brian, very nice

[Geoff F]

A difficult light angle there, Brian. That is why I use flash as my default setting for insects.

If you had managed to focus sharply on the eyes you would have obtained a better result. I normally use manual focus so I can choose the exact sharp spot. But the downside is that you have to focus quickly and too many of my models won't wait for me to fiddle about with the focusing.

Sometimes though, the required sharpest spot is on the wings, or hind leg, etc when identification detail is required.

[JBW]

You are certainly getting there Brian, very nice

T'is a long and interesting journey

[JBW]

A difficult light angle there, Brian. That is why I use flash as my default setting for insects.

If you had managed to focus sharply on the eyes you would have obtained a better result. I normally use manual focus so I can choose the exact sharp spot. But the downside is that you have to focus quickly and too many of my models won't wait for me to fiddle about with the focusing.

Sometimes though, the required sharpest spot is on the wings, or hind leg, etc when identification detail is required.

I have been practicing my manual focus skills. But a skittish fly is on manual focus is not happening quite yet. Myra will be picking me up a pair of white cotton baby booties that will slip over the flash. Would it make more sense to go with spot focus rather than zone?

[IzzieK]

Good one Brian...is that new lens?

[JBW]

Good one Brian...is that new lens?

yes it is. lots of challenges, lots of fun.

[Geoff F]

I get the same troubles with some species, particularly bumblebees, Brian.

For flash shooting, I set the camera with manual settings then vary the flash output compednsation slightly as required. Typical settings for me would be 1/200 F14 Iso 200 to 400. Then simply tweak the flash output to suit any variations of the ambient light/subject brightness. These tweaks are usually slight and predictable once you have done a test shot at the start of each session. I usually do a Custom White Balance although this is easy to adjust when shooting Raw anyway. But it does save a bit of editing time if your shots are correct to start with.

Covering a modern camera flash head won't make any difference if you are shooting with auto TTL metering because the camera thinks the covering is just a dark scene so it will automatically increase power to compensate for the covering. Adjusting the output compensation will produce a more reliable result.

With the old fixed output flashes you had to reduce power by various means of flash coverings.

Sometimes I use a Lastolite Mini Apollo unit over my flash head to widen the flash beam and reduce any harsh shadows with macro work. There are other alternative makes.

[JBW]

I get the same troubles with some species, particularly bumblebees, Brian.

For flash shooting, I set the camera with manual settings then vary the flash output compednsation slightly as required. Typical settings for me would be 1/200 F14 Iso 200 to 400. Then simply tweak the flash output to suit any variations of the ambient light/subject brightness. These tweaks are usually slight and predictable once you have done a test shot at the start of each session. I usually do a Custom White Balance although this is easy to adjust when shooting Raw anyway. But it does save a bit of editing time if your shots are correct to start with.

Covering a modern camera flash head won't make any difference if you are shooting with auto TTL metering because the camera thinks the covering is just a dark scene so it will automatically increase power to compensate for the covering. Adjusting the output compensation will produce a more reliable result.

With the old fixed output flashes you had to reduce power by various means of flash coverings.

Sometimes I use a Lastolite Mini Apollo unit over my flash head to widen the flash beam and reduce any harsh shadows with macro work. There are other alternative makes.

According to what I read I should be using 'pre - ttl' with my macro lens. the camera will automatically adjust flash brightness. I will also use 'fill' flash'.

[rpcrowe]

Brian... you are advancing!

Try one or two pieces of bamboo that could be tied or taped to leaves which are moving in the breeze to steady them. Obviously, the fly would have moved on while you were trying that but, it is a decent technique to stabilize leaves and flowers you wish to shoot...

[JBW]

Brian... you are advancing!

Try one or two pieces of bamboo that could be tied or taped to leaves which are moving in the breeze to steady them. Obviously, the fly would have moved on while you were trying that but, it is a decent technique to stabilize leaves and flowers you wish to shoot...

we grow our own I'll give it a try