Macro Focusing Help

[Beauty Through a Lens]

So I just got a Nikon 105mm Macro lens and a 12mm 20mm (or 25mm) and 35mm extension tubes.

I'm finding it difficult to keep it focus. I can get my camera to focus but then if I move just the slightest or when I press the shutter button the image isn't fully focus. I am practicing on the tip of a pen.

Is this just because I'm not using a tripod or just inexperience? I'm using a Nikon D5100 and I've never done true Macro.

[xpatUSA]

So I just got a Nikon 105mm Macro lens and a 12mm 20mm (or 25mm) and 35mm extension tubes.

I'm finding it difficult to keep it focus. I can get my camera to focus but then if I move just the slightest or when I press the shutter button the image isn't fully focus. I am practicing on the tip of a pen.

Is this just because I'm not using a tripod or just inexperience? I'm using a Nikon D5100 and I've never done true Macro.

A tripod is essential in the world of close-up photography. Or blocks. Or a sandbag. Hands just don't crack it, sorry. A sturdy ball-head for the tripod is helpful. Some might frown on a quick-release but I do use one. Many (most?) use manual focus, at least for dead subjects. If your lens has any tendency to change focus when pointing downward, seriously thick rubber bands can help. Very bright lighting (just while focusing) is good for old eyes like mine. The tubes will give a little extra magnification but it might be better to get comfortable with the 105mm, first at up to 1:1 or even just 1:2 or so.

festina lente

[deetheturk]

Welcome to Macro Adrian Although Ted has given good advice I'm going to disagree on the hands bit For my Macro, mainly bugs, I shoot 100% hand held as I feel when out in the field a tripod just does not work for me, by the time you get set up the bug nearly always is gone!

If you are going to practice on the end of a pen, then you really need a tripod or similar steady support, if I were you start with something bigger and forget the tubes until you have mastered your lens

For handheld try going manual focus, set your distance and move in and out until your subject comes into focus and click, you will have a lot of failure as we all do but we are not wasting film so just keep at it, looking forward to your posts, good luck

[TonyW]

I hesitate to join the conversation when two experts have already spoken. I have the same problem in not being able to stand still without swaying backwards and forwards. If a tripod is practicable, that is the solution. In circumstances where it is not, like chasing a live insect, some support for the camera or photographer is useful if it is available. One technique I use with auto focus is to first achieve focus then quickly lift my finger off the shutter button and immediately press it all the way down. The camera then refocuses and immediately takes the picture.

There are times when autofocus does not work, such as with a spider web when the camera always looks at the background. In that case I would use manual focus and try to take the picture as I move through the position when it is in focus as David suggests.

[Stagecoach]

Adrian, I'm going to say forget autofocus and use focus barrel rotation if on a tripod and physical movement back and forth when your cameras not fixed.

Tripods are fine when they can be used but there's a lot of macro work where they will simply be a hindrance.

The solution is to use the best support you can to enable you to get the captures you want. One of my latest highly technical innovations to assist whilst shooting toads when laying on the ground is a 6 inch length of 1 inch diameter plastic water pipe that I rest the lens on with my hands then resting on the ground behind, it works. So innovation is the key to keeping things steady

[Beauty Through a Lens]

Hey guys! Appreciate the advice! I will definitely start using a tripod once I get one. Maybe in the mean time you guys can give me feedback on my first macro photograph?



Please excuse the watermark I don't have the photograph without it on this hard drive.

[marlunn]

in ref to focus - use backbutton focus if you can - then you dont get that annoying refocus when you fire the shutter - and like shooting a gun, its a slow squeeze not a prod or that moves the whole camera!

I would re-enforce the use the lens only for now until you get used to it - the Depth of Field will be very narrow at close range with just the lens and tricky, with tubes as well - it will be as my daughter describes it 'insanely thin' and is a whole new learning thing to deal with

[AlwaysOnAuto]

Being relatively new to macro photography myself, I'd recommend using your camera in manual mode for a while, lens only. Practice makes perfect they say, and macro takes lots and lots and lots of practice (at least it has for me).
Nice first attempt of the pen.

[Mike Buckley]

Adrian,

I don't have any experience doing macro photography but I do want to mention the lighting in your photo. Your scene is not intuitively easy to light effectively because of the requirement to show the shape of rounded, shiny material and flat textured material. You managed the challenges very well.

[Saorsa]

I like a monopod when shooting in the field. It takes the weight between shots and removes one degree of freedom(up and down) from the equation. If I fix focus and move to bring the subject into focus it seems a lot more controllable. Brace it with your calf and you have more control of side to side movement.

Having the weight supported and controlled allows me to deal with my flash on a cord to help control lighting angles.

[deetheturk]

Hi Adrian, not much wrong with this image keep at it!

[DanK]

This will be partly repetitive, but here is my drill:

1. AF isn't much use in macro, but it is not entirely useless--e.g., you can use it to get an approximate focus under some circumstances. If your lens has full-time manual focusing--my macro lenses do--then I prefer to use back button focusing rather than switching the lens to manual. It gives you the same manual control but lets you use AF easily when you want. (I use back button 90+% of the time, not just for macro.) One way or the other, however, you need to take AF off the shutter button.

2. Get rid of the tube for now, and don't start using it until you are comfortable with the lens at very close distances without it. A tube makes everything harder--less DOF, darker viewfinder, more impact from minor motions. When you do feel you are ready to make things harder, I'd start with the shortest (12 mm) and stick with that until you are comfortable. I now use a 36mm tube as my default when bug hunting, but it took me a couple of years to get to that point.

3. Static objects and moving objects are completely different beasts. For static subjects, a tripod is the way to go. In doing tripod-based macro, I focus with live view, enlarging the area of focus at least 5x. For live subjects, I set the focus roughly where I need it and then move the camera to obtain fine focus. This is not easy, at least for someone as clumsy as I am, particularly because the off-center flash I use for macro adds weight and makes balancing harder. So, I take whatever support I can find. I often use a monopod with a tilt head for this.

And I think the most important advice is: don't be discouraged. Your photo above is fine, but unless you are very good at this, you will have a lot of failures, particularly for handheld work. That's just part of the package.

[Beauty Through a Lens]

Thank you all for your tips and opinion on my photograph above.

[HaseebM]

Macro focusing is all to do with judgement and spontaneous reflexes. Most of my macro is handheld.

[xpatUSA]

Macro focusing is all to do with judgement and spontaneous reflexes.

I think that blunt statement is too broad and probably of little help to the original poster. Sorry.

Most of my macro is handheld.

And a description of what type of macro shooting would help although, from the above, it appears to be flying insects

[HaseebM]

I think that blunt statement is too broad and probably of little help to the original poster. Sorry.



And a description of what type of macro shooting would help although, from the above, it appears to be flying insects

Its difficult to explain Ted but I do it most of the time, perhaps the reason you feel its blunt. Yes sometimes I do shoot flying insects. Here's an example ( of a flying insect )...handheld.

[jcuknz]

A lovely moment HassebM somewhat spoilt by being front focused which raises the question of 'why?'
Were you manually focusing or using AF and what kind of AF. I am currently being bugged by AF not giving me back the single and small focus target area I organised awhile back and the manual is so thick I have yet to 'brave' reading through it to find the answer.
In shooting my last posting* I noticed AF had selected three areas and the result was a good carpet but not the body which was the area I wanted sharp ... end result... back focused


edit * I checked and found the shot is posted on a similar thread not this one

[xpatUSA]

I am currently being bugged by AF not giving me back the single and small focus target area I organised awhile back and the manual is so thick I have yet to 'brave' reading through it to find the answer.

If you're using the GH, there's two types of AF settings:

1) AF mode: face, tracking, 23-area or single area. P.77 in my GH1 manual.

2) AF area: spot, normal, large or extra-large. P.79.

[ajohnw]

I have shot a lot of macro on mirrorless now. I mostly use single spot continuous and have the camera set for no focus no shot. The no shot aspect can be a bit infuriating at times as several presses of the button don't take a shot. All is usually ok if the 1st press works. The trick is the speed the camera is moved at as the shot is framed.

On the other hand it's a bit swings and roundabouts compared with normal AF use via a half shutter press. The trick there is to take the shot rather than 1/2 press and think about it.

The other method is magnified view. This looks to be more viable with higher pixel count viewfinders but I'm not a fan of it. To be sure I have found that the magnification needed has to make up for say at least 1/2 the difference in pixel counts between the viewfinder and the sensor. This is some what dependent on how fast the lens is wide open before it's auto stopped down when the shot is taken.

The biggest problem I have found with the m 4/3 macro lenses is the focal length - too short so I mostly use a 75-300mm zoom lens plus an achromatic close up lens. The zoom lens is ok up to settings of around 200mm, past that there is some softening visible to pixel peepers which I am. I also only magnify the subject as much as I need to for say 1500 px wide web shots. Not using any more magnification than is needed comes from microscope use as in that case it's essential. I don't think it's a bad idea on a camera too. There is a bit of a learning curve - just how big do things need to look in the viewfinder.

Other than magnified view and manual focusing much of what is suggested for focusing by dslr users isn't relevant..

John
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[Brev00]

Hand held or tripod use can both work. I was forced to go hand held this weekend while shooting at an orchid greenhouse because of the crowds. I had my tripod and planned to used it. It has great advantages one of which is that one can use live view to choose and magnify the point of focus to get a certain level of precision that I like. Being able to let the camera just be there and make all sorts of adjustments and then reshoot with different f stops while maintaining the exact frame is terrific for me. But, not completely necessary. Shooting hand held is a different animal and requires those fast reflexes and quick judgments mentioned above. So, maybe it is more fun being a more spontaneous sort of thing. When I am shooting hand held, I have to consider the iso, raising it enough to get a blur-beating shutter speed. I also need to take advantage of all the focal points in my D7100 choosing the exact right one so I don't have to recompose. I like back button focus so I can track continuously or stop and stick then let my body movement or a breeze bring the subject into position. The pen pic looks good so I look forward to seeing some real world stuff.