Blurry Pictures

[JLarocky]

I have a Canon 5D Mark II and sometimes in post processing, I notice that a lot of pictures are coming out blurry. I shoot in RAW and mostly in Shutter Priority unless I have something specific that I want to focus on and have a blurry back ground and for that I use aperture mode. Can anyone give me any advice on settings for the camera that might be able to combat this? I have increased my shutter speed but then my photos become too dark (even shooting outside in natural light). I feel like I am doing something wrong and need some direction. Is there a suggested setting for ISO, Aperture, and Shutter when shooting people in an outdoor setting? Any input would be helpful.

[Stagecoach]

Hi Joy,

It sounds as if you are either using a too slow shutter speed or not keeping your camera still.

Perhaps if you can post one or two examples with the shooting data it will help to diagnose where the problems lie.

Grahame

[Manfred M]

Joy - there is no magic formula for determining the appropriate ISO, shutter speeds and aperture. It really depends on a lot of factors, including the focal length you are shooting at; a wide angle shot is far more forgiving than a telephoto one. It could be as simple as your shooting technique (jerking the camera when you press the shutter release).

If you could post examples of problematic images we could have a look at them to see what might be going wrong.

[DanK]

Joy,

It sounds to me from the way you posed your questions that you would do well to start with the basics. To start, you need to know how ISO, aperture, and shutter speed are related to each other. With that in hand, we could discuss, for example, a reasonable minimum shutter speed for a given photo and lens, and you would then know how to adjust the other two parameters to compensate. I'd suggest that you go to the tutorials section and start with the concepts and terminology tab, which has a section called "how your camera works," or some such. And as Manfred and Grahame said, posting pictures would help. When you do, make sure to say how the photo was taken--the focal length of the lens, the aperture, and the shutter speed.

Dan

[jcuknz]

Really if you stopped using the shutter and aperture modes and used P or programme mode you would get better results while you learnt the basics of photography, of why you would need to use them and the compromises involved in doing so. That you didn't open up the lens or increase your ISO as you increased the shutter speed reveals that you do really need to learn some basics There are probably lots of places of the web but I will mention my site http://jcuknz-photos.com/HELP/HELP.html

One of the most common causes of blurry pictures is 'punching' the shutter in your haste to capture 'that' moment whereas you need to learn to caress the trigger. Learning to take half trigger and waiting until the camera tells you it is ready to take the photo .. almost instantaious with modern cameras but ahabit worth getting into and not completing full pressure to take the shot until you get the AOK signal.

Just having a sophisticated camera doesn't mean it will take great photos unless you know how to handle it properly.

[dan marchant]

I have a Canon 5D Mark II and sometimes in post processing, I notice that a lot of pictures are coming out blurry. I shoot in RAW and mostly in Shutter Priority unless I have something specific that I want to focus on and have a blurry back ground and for that I use aperture mode. Can anyone give me any advice on settings for the camera that might be able to combat this?

The problem could be caused by several issues. The best way to get help is to post some example images with the EXIF data intact.

[Colin Southern]

Some example photos would be a good start.

I might add that the vast majority of photographers use Av mode the vast majority of the time (usually depth-of-field control is a primary consideration) (which is controlled by the aperture). With aperture set you then need to set your ISO to such a value that your shutter speeds are reasonable for what you're trying to achieve; with an often-quoted rule-of-thumb being that the shutterspeed needs to be at least equal or above the reciprocal of the focal length (eg if you're shooting with a 100mm lens, ensure the shutterspeed is at least 1/100th or higher if you're hand-holding the camera without the benefit of an IS lens) (although higher is better).

[ajohnw]

Some of the points posted imply there might be some misunderstanding about exposure because if the shutter speed is increased and the metering on the camera is disregarded the picture will get darker unless a faster aperture is selected or the iso increased.

Speed, F stops and ISO relate to each other via a factor of 2. Stops might go 2,4,8,16 etc the lower number being faster and having less depth of field. Speeds might go 1/30, 1/60, 1/120 sec etc, smaller numbers faster and ISO 100,200,400 etc with the higher numbers increasing speed. To retain an exposure if any one of these is changed the other needs changing to compensate. Say an exposure was currently on 200 ISO, 1/60 sec, F8 and the meter indicated that this was correct and you then selected F4. To re correct the meter reading the ISO would have to be changed to 100 OR the speed increased to 1/120 sec. If you decided to use F16 the change would also be a factor 2 going the other way. If you decided that you needed to shoot at 1/240 sec either the aperture would have to changed by 2 stops or the ISO increased by 2 stops or the aperture changed by 1 stop and the ISO increase by 1 stop. Digital cameras have small fractional stops on all of them. Don't worry about it just remember what can be changed to correct the exposure and how they relate.

Blur might be caused by camera shake. Image stability is wonderful. To give you an idea I can often manage in 35mm terms a 1000mm lens at 1/80 sec seated with my elbows resting on my knees but 1/250 is safer. When young and fit I could easily cope with 1/30 sec and a 200mm lens and no image stability. Shake is more likely as the focal length goes up so speed needs to be increased in line with this. People need to find out what they and their camera is capable of..

The other reason for blur can be AF as wonderful as it is. There is a need to check that it's focusing on the subject. Most cameras have focus indicator that light up when that part of the shot is in focus. It's a case of getting the one on the subject to light up. This might involve pointing the camera so that it can, half pressing the shutter, reframing the shot and then completing the shutter press. Some camera have the facility to use just one AF focus point, some can even move it around - waste of time in my view but some probably like it. When the shutter is half pressed most cameras will also lock the exposure so when a shot is reframed the exposure reading might shift but this can be corrected with exposure compensation. I prefer that to moving the active focus indicator around but it depends on the camera and how the controls are arranged. Often if the shutter is half pressed a few times the camera will decide to focus on something else. I'm not entirely sure that there is any inbuilt intelligence in that respect but they often do that. With face recognition for instance it might suddenly light up 2 or more faces. It's also possible to use the focus screen and manually focus if the depth of field is smallish which it often will be when the subject distance is on he short side and the focal length is sufficient. How effective that is depends on the focal length of the lens, distance and the wide open aperture. The depth of field preview can also be used under similar conditions. Forget the screen for this though unless background blur is very extreme.

Using P mode until you are aware of what F stop etc does is a good idea. You can view the camera settings that were used in the EXIF data recorded in the shot. Even viewers have that capability, try right clicking on a shot on here - but some remove it for some reason. When in P mode you will find that one of the control wheels will shift the settings while retaining the correct exposure so effectively aperture or speed can be set as desired. If you can't get where you want to the ISO needs to changed. This for instance makes it easy to take several shots with different F stops for different depths of field very quickly and easily or even to different focus points. It''s also an ideal settings for snap shot shooting where you may not have time to worry about setting up the camera. When used like that it's best to preset the iso to the conditions you expect. Say bright sunny some clouds 100 ISO, dull 400, ain't sure 200 etc. Not a bad idea what ever you are shooting. Used seriously this mode is fully capable if there is an exposure compensation control easily available as well. Even better if the ISO setting can easily be changed. I often feel the only controls camera should have are P mode shift, exposure compensation and iso setting all via thumb wheels.

John
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[DanK]

Say an exposure was currently on 200 ISO, 1/60 sec, F8 and the meter indicated that this was correct and you then selected F4. To re correct the meter reading the ISO would have to be changed to 100 OR the speed increased to 1/120 sec. If you decided to use F16 the change would also be a factor 2 going the other way. If you decided that you needed to shoot at 1/240 sec either the aperture would have to changed by 2 stops or the ISO increased by 2 stops or the aperture changed by 1 stop and the ISO increase by 1 stop.

John,

You have the principles right but the math wrong. Yes, one f-stop means doubling or halving the light. However, f-stop numbers increase by a factor of approximately 1.4 (precisely, the square root of 2) per stop, not by a factor of 2. Thus intervals of one stop would be marked f/2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, etc. The reason is that the f-stop number is the ratio of focal length to the diameter of the aperture. However, the amount of light that hits the sensor is a function of the area of the aperture, not the diameter, and the area is of course (pi)r^2. So to use your example, if an exposure is correct at 200 ISO, 1/60 sec, f/8 and you changed to f/4, you would be letting in 4 times the amount of light (two stops, so 2 squared), and you would have to change the shutter speed to 1/240.

This is explained more clearly in one of the sections of the tutorials I suggested, https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tu...a-exposure.htm

Every time the f-stop value halves, the light-collecting area quadruples. There's a formula for this, but most photographers just memorize the f-stop numbers that correspond to each doubling/halving of light:

I have to disagree with the suggestions that newcomers use P mode. It's fine to use P mode if you don't yet know how to manage these three parameters and you need to get serviceable photos. However, if your goal is to learn how to manage these three parameters, shooting in P mode is an inefficient way to learn. You can't learn to shift a manual transmission by driving an automatic. Yes, you can examine exif data after the fact, but you don't know how P will change things, and it is more useful to see planned comparisons. My suggestion is:

-- study a basic explanation until you think it really makes sense. the tutorials here are a great resource for this.
-- practice when it does not matter how pictures come out.
--set ISO to one value, say, 200, and leave it there.
--Then experiment with changing shutter speed and aperture to compensate, or vice versa, examining the results.

I wonder whether the ubiquity of computerized cameras has made people think this is harder than it is. When I started, cameras had internal meters, but they only showed a meter reading and did not set anything for you. So everyone just took a short time to learn the exposure triangle. It really is not that hard.

Dan

[Andrew76]

It really is not that hard.

Especially if someone is willing to invest in that type of camera, the minimal time investment in learning the basic exposure triangle should be necessary.

[rambler4466]

Wow. Impressive explanations in this thread. For charts and tables that help visual learners, google "charts and tables for equivalent shutter speeds" and you might be directed here for many choices:
http://www.google.com/search?q=chart...w=1343&bih=870

Check out this one:
http://jimdoty.com/learn/exp101/exp_big3/exp_big3.html

[ajohnw]

I know Dan but was trying to keep it simple and couldn't be bothered to dredge up the actual law from my memory. Some years ago it would be right at the front of it. When an exposure is being set it doesn't really matter and if an F stop can't be reached then speed and iso do work to factors of 2 and will shift the aperture by 1 stop. If the aperture is shifted by one stop so must one of the others. The stop change increment size will be mentioned in the camera manual. The important thing really is to obtain a feel for depth of field related to F ratio. I was just trying to explain which way things go - with breaks for other things it took a while to post it. I also avoided EV's as I feel that can confuse beginners, Talking about the triangle doesn't really help either - odd thing to call it really. The 3 things relate to each other and that's all. Triangles have 3 sides, 3 points. Sounds good and probably sells books.

I will try and fix root 2 in my mind, 1.414.2. the number is actually but as above I don't think there is any need to remember it really.

Only problem with depth of field is that people then rush into hyperfocal distance. Great if one carries a laser range finder about plus some sort of calculator and can also find something at the correct distance to focus on. Possibly an extreme way of putting it but the best option is to get a feel for it and the only way to do that is to use the camera. I spent a whole day shooting pure P mode on the 1st m 4/3 camera just to see what the camera did. It's deeper but there is usually no harm in being conservative, how much extra sky to include when setting the exposure to avoid clipping it, how it tended to focus and what to do if it wasn't where I wanted. On the next whole day I did more. At this point I spent some time going through the button etc programming options. Then tried macro and so on.. This all on an E-PL1 bought used to try the format out. Then bought a new E-P3 as I like the format and it has better control options for me. It was better in other ways too so now my 2nd camera and have bought an E-M5. On that I now know how I would like the control options to work so need to spend some time on the manual.

John
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[DanK]

I will try and fix root 2 in my mind, 1.414.

As the tutorial suggests, most people don't bother and instead just remember the conventional stops: 1.4, 2.0., 2.8, 4.0, etc., not actually knowing that these gaps have anything to do with the square root of 2. Eventually it becomes second nature. When I was learning, I had those numbers firmly in mind long before I knew what the definition of a stop actually is. I wasn't suggesting that the OP worry about the math, just pointing out that if she wants to practice trading off shutter speeds vs. apertures, she has to realize that it is f-stop number differences of this size, not a numerical doubling, that double or halve the light. In the old days, this was a bit easier, since aperture rings were usually marked only with numbers at full stops and tick marks at half stops. None of this 1/3 stop stuff. Thus every time one looked at the aperture ring, one was reminded of the sequence.

When an exposure is being set it doesn't really matter

For a doubling or halving of shutter speed, this is an error of one full stop, which often does not matter but often does. If the OP applied the same rule to a larger change, she could end up off by several stops, which does matter most of the time.

[Colin Southern]

Some of the points posted imply there might be some misunderstanding about exposure because if the shutter speed is increased and the metering on the camera is disregarded the picture will get darker unless a faster aperture is selected or the iso increased.
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The usual problem in shooting in Tv mode though John is that the photographer selects a wonderfully high shutter speed (which the camera honours), but at a fixed ISO, it just can't open the aperture far enough to balance the exposure (eg 1/200th @ ISO 100 -- indoors). It's not hard to work around of course, but one has to understand exposure fundamentals to do that.

[ajohnw]

I used to remember 1/2 stops but quickly forgot them even when using match the needle purely manual film cameras. I might for instance decide I want around F11 and will adjust speed accordingly to get it. If I can't get there change ISO or might use F9. I have seen my camera use F7.1 so nothing odd about 9. Or if I thought the speed was too slow again change the ISO.

If the OP has a shutter speed of say 1/125 and wants 1/250 they just have to adjust the aperture until the get it and if not happy with that change the ISO again so that 1/250 gives a suitable aperture. As discussed the correct exposure according to the camera will be maintained. The advice is basically sound - it has a mistake that in real terms might not be noticed unless full manual mode. That doesn't excuse it.

Yes in tn that context as a quote exposure is a poor choice of words - some regard that as taking a shot - I should have said setting the wanted conditions for a shot while maintaining the correct exposure. As mentioned in the 1st post P mode does maintain the correct exposure. Turn the usual thumb wheel one way and the aperture will go faster and the speed faster to compensate. Go the opposite way and the changes will reverse. My only reason for posting related to an earlier comment about using P mode for a while and to point out that it can fully exploit the capabilities of a camera with a given lens and light levels. At some point people will also want exposure compensation - in any mode the camera is in. I prefer a precise +/- EV display.

I still maintain the only thing relevant to F stops is depth of field. Yes a mistake, I rushed through the relationship. This doesn't excuse the mistake though. Thought that was clear.

Trouble is that eventually people usually realise that depth of field across a range of focal lengths and reproductions sizes is a woolly thing to have to get into but it can take rather a long time for that to happen. Do you really think remembering F stop steps will help with that? I don't.. Where depth of field is really used professionally it needs a tape measure and a calculator as only a certain amount of blur will be acceptable. Some one recently mentioned a rule of thumb some fraction into the distance that is being photographed - good luck what F ratio and what distance and what blur.

John
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[ajohnw]

The usual problem in shooting in Tv mode though John is that the photographer selects a wonderfully high shutter speed (which the camera honours), but at a fixed ISO, it just can't open the aperture far enough to balance the exposure (eg 1/200th @ ISO 100 -- indoors). It's not hard to work around of course, but one has to understand exposure fundamentals to do that.

Do I need to assume that if some one sees something flashing in the viewfinder or on the screen I need to point out that it's important to check what that means or that the meter scale shows severe under or over exposure same again. That would mean an even longer post!

Just can't happen in P mode even if adjusted. While it has been on cameras I have always tended to make us of it. Part rebel against I shoot manual, aperture priority, speed etc people. I developed a bit of a thing about that early on. On the other hand it will do all modes except full auto so saves toggling another setting.

mmmmm I don't think I have ever tried auto iso and P mode. Sad that camera designers don't really consider usability in my view so suspect it might just lock iso at what ever it happened to be.. I have a fundamental dislike of ISO doing what it likes but some cameras allow limits to be set.

John
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[JLarocky]

Thank You everyone for feed back. I realize that just because I have a sophisticated camera doesn't mean its going to take great photos unless I know how to use it. That's why I posted this thread because I have a lot more I need to learn. Sounds like I just need more practice. Here are some pictures. I always check my photos after every couple shots. With these pictures, the ones before were brighter and I didn't adjust any settings or move locations between images. I know many variables can change from picture to picture but just trying to understand it better.

[Stagecoach]

Hi Joy,

You need to tells us the settings, Aperture, Speed and ISO, that these images were taken at or post the images so that the Exif data is intact.

Grahame

[Manfred M]

First of all, these images are very badly underexposed.

You are quite correct in suggesting that a high-end camera isn't going to give you great images, if you don't know how to use it properly. Unfortunately, the images that you posted came across without the metadata attached, so the basic information we need to figure out what you are doing is not there.

My guess is that if you are shooting shutter prioirity, you are using a shutter speed that is much too high for the lighting conditions and ISO settings of your camera. I suggest that if you set it to auto-ISO for now you will get better results.







You are shooting with the lens fairly wide open (the depth of field is quite shallow) and this is impacting some of the sharpness for sure.

[jcuknz]

With due respect Manfred you have changed them from grossly under to mildly over exposed and ignoring the situation they were photograhed under.
Despite the expert depreciateing the use of P mode I favour it as a starting position as with swimming you are not thrown into the pool but get used to the water by hanging onto the side of the pool and learning to kick with your legs etc.

The use odf P mode means that you have the enjoyment of getting photos you will appreciate instead of 'no goods' .... although it does bring into the equation what can be done in post processing ... and considerably less if any PP will be needed if at this stage you shoot in P mode ... as with Manfred I am sure it took me just a few seconds to adjust them to my feeling for the situation. If you had shot in P it would most likely taken you little more and the more competant you get in both camera and editing work the better a photographer you will become and it is confidence that you will get a usable result which is the impoprtant factor for both newbie and experienced.




There is another factor that with my un-calibrated monitor am producing a darker image than what you see on your monitor becuase I suspect I have a 'bright' monitor. But I see woodland as a moderately dark place which is why I stopped raising the images where I did using FYI the curves tool as an adjustment layer.

The second photo raises an interesting point of shooting things against a bright background.
My simple approach which I developed when I started using a P&S camera with no controls was if taking your shot I would aim the camera at the people and take half trigger. That would set the camera up to correctly expose them and we let the bright foliage behind take care of itself. Having organised the camera with the correctr exposure and still holding half trigger one raises the camera for the framing one wants and completes full pressure.

Since neither picture is blurry we have not solved that problem but you have a couple of takers for the records which show you can do it