Beginner Lenses Advice

[Inkanyezi]

Aren't good shots those that are poured in glasses?

Anyway, it's the handling of the camera that gives good images. Of course there are advantages with new cameras, but the first thing to do when you need to improve your images is not to buy a new camera, but to analyse what can be done to improve your technique and vision. Good images is much more about lighting and composition and the camera comes a fair bit down the list. The most important feature is a few inches behind it.

[KarenO]

With regards to built in focus motor when I am buying a lens how do I know it has a built in focus Motor? Is there a letter or a number which indicates this? I also see a f1.4 and f1.8 apart from the price what difference would that actually make.
Sorry for all thicko questions in advance but sometimes I get all confused with the amount of info out here.

Karen.

[rambler4466]

Definitely do not get a new camera....yet. Get to know the one you own. Learn its features to help you get the look in your images that you like. Do not be overwhelmed by all the info in your manual. Start small, one step at a time. For example, learn about shooting in aperture mode. Definitely invest in an expensive tripod. It is an investment as important as a new lens. For example, to learn about aperture and its effect on images, put your camera on a tripod and take a series of photos of the exact same subject, using the same focal length, ie. do not zoom, change only the aperture and then look closely at the background in each image. You should see the background change as relation to blur.-, ie. DOF. If you do not yet have a tripod, set the camera on a table and set it at a time release, so you won't jiggle it by pushing on the shutter button.

Get out and about with your cameras. When I shoot landscapes, I always use a tripod. It is hard enough to get images sharp even when using a tripod. Soon it becomes second nature.

To make a decision about lenses, think about the look you like best in your images. Which focal length do you use most of the time? But, also consider what focal length are you missing? I was almost always using my zoom, never the wide angle kit lens, so I went for a more expensive zoom lens when I decided to get "more glass". I loved trying to get in close with birds. Next, I started getting about three feet from a flower and zooming in close. That eventually led me to invest in a macro lens. Then I read an article on taking effective looking landscape images with a more wide angle lens. I went back to using the wide angle kit lens. I would go out and just shoot using one focal length. I learned as much as possible about composition. Of course, there is much more to learn, but you get the process.

Now I shoot a lot in Manual Mode rather than Aperture mode and my interests now are in HDR.

What about shutter speed? I took a four week course just on that topic.

Get Scott Peterson's book Understanding Exposure. Google books written by John Shaw. Composition. Composition. Composition. Learn about it, then practice.

Here is my experiences with good cameras. I have an Olympus e-620 which I learned on. Then it started to need repairs. I could not rely on it. I invested in a Nikon D7000. Man, I am having a hard time learning all the features. I am used to my Olympus, I learned to quickly change settings, and change to a different lens for a different look. Now with the Nikon I am back to learning the camera all over again. Oh, it is fun to be frustrated again as I struggle with the learning curve! Am I getting better pictures? Not that I can see. It's not the camera, it is how it is being used. For example, I cannot figure out how to see the histogram in the Nikon BEFORE I take the image, I can only get to it in the replay AFTER I take the image. So, the Olympus wins in that feature. But, with the Nikon when I look through the view finder I am looking at 100% of the image that I would see in the LCD, so the Nikon is better with that feature. I miss the swivel LCD on the olympus. So, it goes, and hopefully you see that the point I am trying to make is that different cameras have different features and ways to access them. So just changing cameras will not necessarily get you better images.

If you buy a really good guitar, the music won't sound that great until you learn how to play it. But, you might recognize that the sound is better on a good quality guitar and hearing the pleasing tones might encourage you more to learn to make the music by learning the chords and strums more so than if you were using a guitar with poor quality sound. So, learn as much as you can about using the features on your camera that will help you get the images you like.

There is so much to learn, but remember how the lion catches his prey....one step at a time. But, to be like a lion, get up running!

BTW If you want a single focal length lens ( a prime), start with the macro. You can have fun getting very close to a subject, and yet you will have a nice lens to use for portraits.

[Inkanyezi]

For Nikon lenses, the built-in motor in lenses is pointed out with "AF-S" or "AF-I". There is a table in your manual that says which lenses are compatible*. Other brands may have different designations, but you can always check with the vendor. From Nikon only AF-S and AF-I have the motor, and it is unlikely that you will find AF-I lenses, so if Nikon, look for AF-S. Only AF will not autofocus with your camera.

*) Technical Notes, p 167 in the reference manual.

[rambler4466]

Let's say you really like zooming in, then the next step would be to invest in the best lens at the focal distances you like at the price you can afford. Later on a few months or so, you may find that you really like the wide angle view. So, then go for a new wide angle lens, the best you can afford. Do you see the pattern?

In short, if you put a cheaper lens on a pro body and an expensive lens on a cheaper model, your images with the best lens will win. Pro level bodies, the more expensive models will give you a better made body, increased weather resistant, more features, more solid build, more steel, less plastic and more features, may be a few more pixels. Cheaper cameras have excellent sensors. Cheaper cameras mean less money, not necessarily cheap as in quality of the image you can achieve.

More expensive lenses have more glass inside, and the mounts, too, are stronger, plastic not steel.

Anyway spend your money on more expensive lenses, not on more expensive cameras or bodies.

Which lens? Which focal lengths do you want to shoot? I started with zooms, then back to wide angles. Hey, if you are getting a gift, spend a few of your dollars and rent a lens for a few days from Borrowlenses.com. I recommend their service which I have used three times.

http://www.borrowlenses.com/?utm_sou...m_medium=email

[KarenO]

Thank you everyone who has taken time to reply to me I appreciate your great advice especially the one about hiring lenses what a great way to try before you buy. I am based in the UK and the link above was for US hire but I have done a search and found a place in the UK called Locker lens which do the same service think I will give it a go.

A friend has given me a tripod which I haven't got round to using yet as I'm a bit unsure how I would actually focus a picture without actually touching the camera using a time release thingy? I thought I have to press the shutter halfway down to focus then recompose my shout I can't imagine how I would do this if I am using a time release.

Thanks also for the book recommendations going to order myself some this weekend. I tend to read a lot of camera magazines which give me loads of ideas of things I would to shoot.

I think being honest my problem is I want to run before I can walk, been glancing at post production and HDR and getting ahead of myself think the best way is as you say just get out there and start shooting on different settings.

Karen

[William W]

. . . [I] think the best way is as you say just get out there and start shooting . . .

Sage.
But you require a task.

***

Reading and other stuff is great.

But arguably the dual most incredible features of Digital Capture is the speed of output interrogation and the virtual nil cost of same: what I am saying is – get out and make photographs; sure you will make many, many mistakes and many, many photographs upon which seeing, you will be: cranky; annoyed; happy; sad; frustrated and joyful . . . and hopefully all those emotions will be channelled into you getting back out there, to improve.

***

It also occurs to me that (in an endeavour to run before you walk) you are allocating too much time to not only wondering what to buy next, but also reading and following up about theory without any set pattern of that follow-up; NOR do you have the hands on experience (or you are not showing it) upon which you can REFERENCE that theory to YOUR Photographs; especially those which you have had difficulty making . . .

This is not uncommon, I see it often in Students, especially those who are passionate: they are also the type usually who want to get it right from the beginning.

The reality is, learning the Piano doesn’t work like that . . . you have to play the wrong note to know what is wrong . . . and then set about, using a SYSTEM to fix the mistakes . . .

***

Note as mentioned:

I also love landscape photography and have toyed with the idea of getting a 18-105 mm lens . . . [and etc . . .]

Top of the ‘to do list’: I will make 10 superior Landscape Photos with my Kit Lens (18 to 55) by the end of next week end.

Next on the ‘to do list’: I will dissect each of those TEN and will note at least TWO points in each, where I could have improved the Photograph in some manner.

Final task: I will then post the BEST TWO, with FULL EXIF and a brief description of the LOCAL CONDITIONS and a brief summary of 'MY VISION' for the images - and those two postings will be for assessment and critique here at CiC.

***

I look forward to Monday Morning – I invite you to send me a PM to confirm you have posted TWO images for CC - I have already allocated time in my diary on Monday next.

WW

[Glenn NK]

Aren't good shots those that are poured in glasses?

Anyway, it's the handling of the camera that gives good images. Of course there are advantages with new cameras, but the first thing to do when you need to improve your images is not to buy a new camera, but to analyse what can be done to improve your technique and vision. Good images is much more about lighting and composition and the camera comes a fair bit down the list. The most important feature is a few inches behind it.

Good advice - hopefully it will be understood and followed.

On the purchase of a new lens, my only advice is to exhaust all the possibilities of the existing lens(es) one has. Shortcomings in these should indicate what is needed (and I'm not talking about the IQ of the lens). If one is doing bird photography with a 100 mm focal length, it will soon become apparent that it is too short.

Glenn

[inkista]

To me, there are three philosophies on what a newb should get lenswise, and one big problem. The chicken'n'the egg problem here is that to know what lenses you want, you gotta get some experience with lenses. Right now the problem is that you don't know what you don't know.

Path 1 is the one you're asking about. And that's a "training wheels triple": 18-55, 55-250, 50/1.8 II. Shotgun approach. You get experience with a wide-to-normal zoom, a telephoto zoom, and a fast (slightly long) prime for notta lotta cash. You get experience with IS and non-IS, and fast max. aperture vs. slow, and prime vs. zoom. The only piece of knowledge you'll be missing is what USM/STM can do for you. But it's a good sound basis from which to start looking at other lenses, and if the 18-55 is kitted with the body, the three lenses together cost less than one good mid-range lens.

Others say that Path 1 is a waste of time/money. And chances are good that you will eventually replace all three lenses. So some folks advocate Path 2: going for "final" lenses, and not wasting time on temp learning ones. This can be great advice if you already know what you want. If you have experience with lenses, this is definitely the path to go down, but given how expensive lenses are, this may not be the best choice for a newb who doesn't know why there's such an astronomical price difference between the EF 50mm f/1.8 II and the EF 50mm f/1.2L USM for just a bump of 0.6 to the aperture. But if you have a good experienced mentor who can be guided by what you need, rather than what they like , and you have the cash to blow, this could save you some gear flipping, and widen up your camera's faster. And if you make a wrong decision, at least high-end glass tends to hold value better than low-end glass.

Path 3 is that instead of getting an 18-55/55-250 twin lens kit, get a superzoom, like the 18-135 or 18-200. The image quality will be roughly the same, you'll have the convenience of no "breakover" point in the zoom range requiring a lens change, and after you've moved on to bigger and better glass, you can still find a use for a superzoom as a walkaround/travel lens for those times you need to go light. The only problem is that an EF-S 18-200 IS costs more than the triple. 3rd-party superzooms, though, do not.

Which path to walk is up to you, and what your personal priorities and budget are.

[connaughtgreen]

what a fantastic read common sense no strings advice i just knew i would love this site ...conn

[William W]

what a fantastic read common sense no strings advice . . .

I agree.

Unfortunately, though, the OP's last post at CiC was on this thread: Post #26, on Nov 27th 2012.
I do hope she actually did set about doing those tasks and she is in good health.

WW