Oasis and Blur for Shannon

[Wirefox]

Shannon

The subject matter is a bit naff but this shot illustrates focus blur quite well. The parameters for the shot are as follows;

Lens to subject distance: <2m
Subject to background distance: 3m
Focal length: 95mm (152mm in 35mm format equivalent)
Aperture: f/4

• This combination works because the distance from lens to subject is short
• the subject to background is greater than the lens to subject distance (the further the better but you must remember that the quality of the focus blur will vary - with this lens 1.5 times the lens to subject distance gives a nice consistent blur)
• The focal length of the lens is set quite long and the aperture is open to the maximum (for this lens).
• The aperture is wide open (not the optimum aperture on most lens but this one does OK)

[Katy Noelle]

...et, voila!

[Shambhala]

Steve this is Beautiful!!! Thanks, I am going to read it over again it takes awhile for all the lingo to sink in..I just started to learn the camera "lingo" a few weeks ago. It's perfect. If you were handing this in I am sure my teacher would give you an A plus!! I really appreciate your help.. ! I am going to take some pictures later and see what I can come up with I still don't have any that I like for school and they are due on Tues.! Yikes!

[Wirefox]

Thanks Shannon but I posted this before I saw your bird in hand shots. Having seen those I think my guidance may be redundant.

[Shambhala]

No really it wasn't redundant. I really am just practicing with DOF.. I don't always know where to focus or how close to be to the subject. I still have a lot to learn so I was really glad you posted!!

[Katy Noelle]

Hey, Steve, this makes me very nostalgic remembering when I first came to CiC. I was half figuring dof out, already, on my own (by trial and wonder and wikipedia) and you instructed me in a very similar way to this that was tremendously helpful (I didn't get a photo, though.) Then, Peter Ryan said something during the Oct. PAD (photo a day, Shannon) that helped me realize that I could choose to use it artistically. These things are very helpful!

(Psst, Shannon! I hope that you saw my "hello" and welcome to you in my D. tulips thread! It's pleasant having you around.)

[Shambhala]

I didn't see that thread Katy .. Thanks for pointing it out. I am going to look for it now. I don't quite know how to view everything in the forum yet, still trying to figure it all out. I think I miss a few posts.. lol... It's pleasant being here, everyone is kind and helpful. CIC is my new internet addiction.. Facebook who? hehe.

[dulceza]

Hi Steve,
I'm a beginner and I found very interesting this exercise. After 2 days of frustrating results I decided to contact you. Hope you don't mind explain me a little bit more what should I do: I have a T2i with 18-55mm lenses.
Thank you very much for your time

[Wirefox]

Dora

Apologies for not getting back sooner. You are going to struggle to get good focus blur with the 18-55mm but you can get it. I slapped my old 18-55mm on my 40D and set up the same shot as above but this time I had to get much nearer the subject to get the blur. To get in close I had to be 2 feet from the subject. The distance to the background is still as for the first shot. The problemis to get a tight crop you need to go to 55mm and with that lens the minimum aperture is f5.6 as opposed to the EF70-210 which allows a constant f/4.0 through the zoom range.

This shot is very noisy since it was very cloudy and evening here. Tripod should have been used but I am a lazy sausage but you get the idea. You may also want to try playing with a virtual DSLR like this you can see very quickly the difference the setting make this one also allows you to see the effect of distance to subject which is useful

[dulceza]

Hi Steve,
I experienced the noise and the blur from the shaking, but no isolation between subject and background -all blurred, or all clear.
Tonight seems that I got something - my naff subject and a blurred background (far from your artistic blur .. still..a progress)
Does your shot was in manual mode? I saw 1/200 for the speed. In AV mode I got 1/13, if I change in manual for 1/200 the pics are dark. Does the ISO counts?
It was a good exercise- I had to read about Dof, parameters and to try all kinds of combinations. Thank you, very much appreciate your help

[Shambhala]

good job Dora. You just have to keep practicing.. we have been working on it in school for three weeks now. looks like you are getting the hang of it

[dulceza]

Oh, thank you Shannon for the encouragement, Steve's pic is simply "biutiful" compared with mine, but I have to keep in mind that's an exercise and I have to practice. Have a good night !

[Shambhala]

I am still in the practicing stage too Dora, so don't give up.. !! I think you did an excellent job, much better then my attempt lol, You have a good night too.!

[Wirefox]

Dora

I think you have done very well here. I used Av mode for this because it illustrates the fact that when controlling DoF you need to pin down one corner of the exposure triangle...the aperture. The first one is shot in manual (I shoot everything manual if at all possible). With manual setting I get full control of all the corners of the exposure triangle...shutter speed, aperture and iso. That allows far more creativity but I did shoot Av almost exclusively for the first 18 months of owning a DSLR and there is nothing at all wrong in doing that. Having full control over one of the points (aperture) gives you an appreciation of what the camera needs to do to compensate for your creative judgement in selecting the aperture. Next take the camera out of auto ISO mode and this shows what the camera has to do to compensate for a two parameter judgement. If you do this over a period of time an pay attention to the reading on the camera and the results you get going to manual is no big deal. Most importantly take your time and be econonic with the number of shots you take. It is far easier to interpret half a dozen shots taken with due care than 600 blasted away in a scatter gun approach.

Does the ISO counts?

I think I covered this above but yes the ISO setting (simplistically) makes the sensor more sensitive so if you are getting low shutter speeds and you have set your aperture to get your focus blur effect then increasing the iso will increase your shutter speed. beware though there are massive differences in the way cameras perform at high ISO. My 450D will produce practically noiseless images at ISO 400 the 40D at ISO 800 if the subject is correctly exposed. If I go above this I must accept that I will get some noise in the image. How much this matters is down to personal taste. Bear in mind that introducing more light onto the subject is always going to be the ideal (unless you are doing purposely low key shots). This is where flash guns and/or reflectors come into the equation.

[dulceza]

Hi Steve,
Thank you for your comprehensive explanations - it make me think at my mother recipes (and quotes)- if you never mix the ingredients, you'll never know what you are capable of