1 click away from buying lens. what filters do I need?

[b00gym4n]

I read the nice tutorial on filters, but I'm still a bit unsure of what to buy.
It seems to me that there are a lot of different kind of filters.

As I was buying a Canon 24-70L 2.8 amazon recommended that I bought the b+w uva haze filters which cost about $80 more. Are UVA filters just lens protectors?

Should I save that $80 and use it for a Neutral Density filter? Which i heard is necessary for outdoor landscape shooting?

I'm using this lens primarily for landscape during sunset/sunrise hours.
Any help would be MUCH appreciated. I would like to pull the trigger on my entire purchase by tonight. THanks!

[Geoff F]

A uv filter will protect your lens when you aren't using any other filters, and can sometimes help to reduce over bluish problems.

I think that a lot will depend on what else you do with your lens. For example, if photographing a friend's birthday party or similar event, even if it is just a one off favour, may cause you to be thankful for that bit of lens protection.

Other filters may prove useful under certain conditions, but using the wrong filter can sometimes prove worse than nothing. With digital editing, I don't find that filters are quite as essential as during film photography; although they can help under some circumstances.

[Donald]

Should I save that $80 and use it for a Neutral Density filter?

No! No! No!

The UV on the front is your protector. It's much better to get a scratch on, or break, $80 worth of UV than destroy the lens by damaging the main front element on a 24-70 L.

NDs are fine, but are added extras. Yes you should save for a set. A UV on the other hand , in my view (and that of the vast majority on here) is not an option. Get it.

I'm just jealous that you're buying a 24-70L

[pono]

Definitely get the UV filter. Essential, in my opinion.

If you are planning to do a lot of sunrise/set shots, a GND may be good also. There are different types like Split GND, and Graident GND. There are also different strengths or differences from dark to light.

These will allow you to expose for the foreground while not blowing out the sky.

Hope that helps. You lucky dog!

[b00gym4n]

Lol I should not have posted the info on where I was buying it. Cause someone bought it before me! BOOOOOO. best deal too argh. Thanks for the info. Guess I'm going to just buy a new one.

[b00gym4n]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

What's the difference between a Canon USA 24-70 lens and Canon Imported 24-70 lens? They differ by $20...

[Donald]

Only thing I can see is that they say the shipping cost on the 'Canon US lens' is free, but you're going to have to pay shipping for the imported one.

Otherwise ............!? It's the same lens.

[b00gym4n]

I saw that as well, but the shipping only cost $13. Seems a bit weird to me.

[Donald]

Maybe something connected to taxes? Who knows. Seems weird.

[Colin Southern]

Maybe something connected to taxes? Who knows. Seems weird.

"About USA and GREY MARKET (DIRECT IMPORT) Products

Items marked "USA" are imported and/or distributed by the manufacturer or the manufacturer's official licensed importer/distributor and are warranted by them. Items marked "IMP" are imported and/or distributed by other entities and are warranted by B&H Photo-Video. "IMP" products do not qualify for manufacturer's rebate programs. There is no difference in the item itself."

[rpcrowe]

The use of a filter to protect the lens is an on-going argument which has never been solved. Each camp has its following.

However there is one accessory which you should always use: the lens hood. Canon "L" lenses come with lens hoods from the manufacturer while most other Canon non-L lenses (even the expensive 17-55mm f/2.8 IS) are not supplied with a hood.

My advice is to use a hood at all times (indoors and out) if you have one; and get one and use it at all times if you have purchased your lens without a hood (occasionally used L lenses are sold without hoods). The hood wil not only protect the image from flare but will physically protect the lens from damage. Chinese knock-off hoods are just fine if you don't have a Canon hood and they cost a fraction of what the Canon OEM hoods run.

One drawback (which is inconsequential to me since I never use the built-in flash) is that with some lenses, the lens hood will obscure a portion of the light from the built-in flash and cause a half-moon shadow at the bottom of the image.

IMO, a filter which is virtually necessary (for many outdoor shots) is the Circular Polarizer. The CPL is one filter that can produce results which cannot be duplicated in post-processing. An example is to see though windows or underwater which is obscurred by reflections. It will, of course deepen the blue of the sky (when the sun is at the proper angle) and enhance the vibrance of foliage (especially wet foliage) by reducing reflections. One use for a polarizer which is seldom noted is that is can, at times, reduce the haze on a long shot by reducing or eliminatiog the reflections from the moisture particulates in the air. The CPL requires a two stop exposure increase (which is compensated for by the camera's meter). This is a two edged sword. It can at times slow down your shutter speed below the level at which you can hand hold the lens OR it can sometimes be used as a 2 stop ND filter to allow a slower shutter speed or wider aperture when needed.

As with all filters, top-line CPL filters are expensive (especially in large sizes like the 77mm required for the 24-70L) but, it is false economy to pay a great deal for a lens and reduce the IQ of that lens by using a poor filter. I would especially stay away from filter "sets". These usually contain other than top-line filters.

BTW: Regarding USA and "grey market" lenses. There was a time that the "grey market" lenses were considerably less expensive than USA branded lenses. However, now the price difference usually is not significant. B&H will provide their own warranty on grey market lenses purchased from them. I don't know how good their service center is but, I have great confidence in the Canon Service Center in Irvine, CA. Unless the price differential is significant I might buy the Canon warranted lens because of my confidence in the Canon warranty.

[Glenn NK]

I have some rules I follow with regard to filters:

1) Always use one for protection,

2) Always pay the extra money for the best (only B+W or Rodenstock). A filter is far cheaper than the front lens element (and being flat, it's easier to clean).

Glenn

[Geoff F]

Further to Richard's comments about lens hoods.

Recently, my 24-105 lens slipped from my fingers but I caught it by the lens hood; which came undone and the lens dropped less than 3 feet onto carpet. The uv filter was completely smashed, but the lens survived.

[b00gym4n]

I appreciate all the information and feedback. I have ordered the lens, B+W uva filter, control timer which was recommended by colin awhile back and I am currently in the process of finding a polarizer filter. There are so many on B&H's website it's really hard to pick which one has the best value...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

thanks again guys!

[Donald]

I have ordered the lens ...

I'm green with envy. Enjoy it.

[Colin Southern]

My advice is to use a hood at all times (indoors and out) if you have one; and get one and use it at all times if you have purchased your lens without a hood (occasionally used L lenses are sold without hoods). The hood wil not only protect the image from flare but will physically protect the lens from damage.

To be honest Richard, my feelings are somewhat ambivilent towards them. From a flare point of view they're great when the sun is at an angle to the direction I'm shooting (and I ALWAYS use one in that situation), but a lot of (my) landscape is shooting into the light where a hood isn't going to help - plus - it physically can't me mounted if I'm using GNDs, and with medium to longer lenses the depth of the hood makes it very difficult to get to the likes of Vari-ND filters (without sticking an oily finger on the glass in the near dark). In those situations I'll often REVERSE the hood to stop me bumping the focus ring (because the lens will be in MF by then).

From the "protection" angle, I find it good protection against rain & sun, but only a limited degree of protection against a lot of other things; unfortunately, one good knock and they go flying off. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, but that the UV filter is still (IMO) by far the "best defence" against any kind of mechanical insult.

[Dave Humphries]

I am currently in the process of finding a polarizer filter. There are so many on B&H's website it's really hard to pick which one has the best value...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

Hi Pat,

You do know NOT to buy Linear polarizer, don't you? (.. because they usually prevent AF from working on DSLRs) (I mention it because it is top of the list in the link and it is cheap (but not good value))

I go with Hoya Pro-1 Digital, not the cheapest - actually the B+H price is far too high - Amazon UK is £63, and that isn't $163.

I am considering a similar range, fast lens myself, or I might go for a prime (or even two) with a wider aperture.

Cheers,

[Paul in PDX]

I just ordered my first L lens also, the 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro. Im a little afraid that it will be habit forming.

[Bobby Canon]

I just ordered my first L lens also, the 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro. Im a little afraid that it will be habit forming.

Have no fear, it most definitely WILL be habit forming....hee hee. Enjoy your new lens.

[Fleshpiston]

IMO the two filters that are a must:

1. UV filter (for protection and to help with haze)
2. CPL (keeps those reflections in check and blue skys blue)


I too can recommend the Hoya Pro-1 Digital. Great CPL.