How to get exposure longer than 30 sec?

[b00gym4n]

I have a 5d MK II and my maximum exposure is 30 seconds. I've been seeing pictures that have been exposed for over 4 minutes. What kind of accessory do I need to do this?

Also how do I change my iso settings to get over 6400 on the MK II ?

This camera is uber nice, however I don't know how to use it and I don't even know what I'm doing. It's getting quite frustrating.

:[

[timo2]

A remote of some sort will let you do exposures over 30 seconds

There are lots of choices, here’s one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Way-Wireless-R...-/140462777411

Another way to achieve exposures longer than 30 seconds - without a remote control - is to set the camera to 30 seconds and shoot a bracketed range of exposures.

Sorry, I can’t give you specifics for your camera because I’m a Nikon user.

[b00gym4n]

I see thanks. Also how do I resize my raw images into smaller ones that I can actually use to post?

[timo2]

What software are you using?

[b00gym4n]

I have lightroom as well as ps cs5. Not too familiar with the software though.

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Pat,

After you have finished editing, save it as a full size psd (I'm talking vaguely CS5 here, not LR), then Image > Resize and set pixel size depending where you intend to host the image online:
If here at CiC as an attachment or album, make longest dimension 700px.
If TinyPic or somewhere else like PBase, you probably want something bigger, but I wouldn't go above say 1600 wide and 1000 high, so people can see it on screen.

After the downsize, use a USM sharpen of 70-100% 0.3px and 1 - 5 threshold depending on image content and noise level (higher threshold for noisier picture, although if you downsized a fair bit, most of the noise may have gone.

Then save as jpg (might need to convert to 8 bit)
Job done.

Apart from hosting, for that, you may find this thread useful;
HELP THREAD: How can I post images here?

Cheers,

[Clactonian]

Ic thanks. Also how do I resize my raw images into smaller ones that I can actually use to post?

It is a very simple process in Lightroom. From the Develop module, where I'm presuming you have done the basic edit on your RAW file (or a virtual copy of it), hit File>Export. This brings up a dialogue box where you can preset all the parameters.
Choose where you want your file to be saved (if it is for web use, I have a CiC folder on my Desktop), rename the file if you wish so that you can readily identify it (I tend to leave the file name as is); select jpeg as your format and sRGB as your colour space. You also find it easier to set the file size limiter to say 400k.
Set the image size choice to 'long edge' 700 pixels and the resolution to 95 pixels per inch. Select output sharpening for screen, and do nothing with the remaining choices. Click 'Export' and job done. Now every time you go back into export those parameters will be set, so you just have to hit the 'Export' button. Sounds complicated but it really is a breeze.

[b00gym4n]

Awesome thanks. Also does anyone know how to get longer exposure with canon w/o the remote or any other cheaper methods?

I found this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._4524B001.html will this work? it's fairly cheap.

[Colin Southern]

does anyone know how to get longer exposure with canon w/o the remote or any other cheaper methods?

Other than holding the shutter release down with your finger whilst in bulb mode, no.

I found this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._4524B001.html will this work? it's fairly cheap.

No.

What I use (and recommend) is http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._2477A002.html

[Jim B.]

At the very least,you would need this remote http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._2476A001.html

I'm not sure if the wireless you linked to has the capability to keep the shutter opened past 30".Description does say bulb.
The remote I linked to allows you to lock the button on to use for long exposures.
The easiest is to get the "Timer" remote switch.Can't remember the model.B+H has them.
There are cheaper "clones" of the timer remotes also.

[b00gym4n]

Thank you Colin & Jim. Both are what I was looking for.

[Wirefox]

however I don't know how to use it and I don't even know what I'm doing

Send it to me. I will figure it all out for you and in a year or three I will send it back with some hastily scribbled notes. You can PM me for my postal address

It does beg the question if you are not trying to run before you learn to walk. It may be best to get thoroughly familiar with the basics before attempting exceptionally long exposures and tinkering with peripheral kit. This coming from someone who never reads instruction manuals

[b00gym4n]

There is a bit of a learning curve. However, it doesn't seem all that hard to understand. I still have a lot to learn, but I'm sure I'll be able to take decent to above average photos sometime soon.

[Colin Southern]

For what it's worth, the TC80-N3 has great ergonomics ... I can set up the composition - set the timer - and then just go sit in the car with the heater running while the timer tells the camera when to take the shots ... how far apart, and how many ...

Keeps me really comfortable

[Springburn57]

You should have a setting named 'BULB'. When set to BULB the shuteer remains open as long a s you keep the shutter button pressed. A cable release would also help. I have a 500D and use the RS-60E3 cable release.

[pikchaser]

Absolutely. You will need to change to bulb and use a remote to hold the shutter open as long as you like. Trying to do it without a remote will most likely result in camera shake resulting in a blurred image. This proceedure is used in light trails and taking pictures of fireworks.

[The Blue Boy]

Alternatively, if you don't have a remote, use a piece of dark card in front of the lens. i.e. fire the shutter, remove the card quickly from the front of the lens. Replace when you've finished the exposure (s), close the shutter. Works really well with fireworks and you won't get blur.

[benm]

Alternatively, if you don't have a remote, use a piece of dark card in front of the lens. i.e. fire the shutter, remove the card quickly from the front of the lens. Replace when you've finished the exposure (s), close the shutter. Works really well with fireworks and you won't get blur.

This sounds like a camera that has a "T" setting. I once had an Exakta with that feature - didn't know it was still available on modern cameras.

[Steaphany]

Why not try you hand at an astronomical image processing method of long exposures ?

Here are a couple to take a look at, DeepSkyStacker and RegiStax. Both are free and both are used by the astronomical community to combine a collection of short exposures into a single long exposure image.

Then, just click off a few hundred 30 second exposures and stack them into a multi-minute,or multi-hour, exposure equivalent.

[inkista]

On the 5D Mark II bulb mode is no longer done by dialing the shutter speed down past 30s in M mode, there's a new "B" mode on the mode dial.