Need a manual focus 10MP+ for close up still photography..

[Guinness]

The more I look at cameras, the more I want to adjust the focus manually, like older non-digital cameras.. Does anyone know of a good close up/macro with optical zoom and at least 10MP? Now for the kicker... under $250? I guess you call it product photography, it's small precision model prototypes.. Smallest are 1/8 X 1/8 X 3/4 inch, and the largest are 3 X 3 X 14 inches long.. Depth past 2 inches will rarely be required, as it's mostly for front/side/top blueprint type work.. The word "macro" seems to be tossed around at random by camera companies, so my searches are not turning up any relevant results.. Anyone using one they like they could point me to a few photos from? I'd be perfectly fine with used in good shape if someone is upgrading...
One more thing I'd like to add... IF this feature is even available on cameras, a USB/HDMI/Video out port so I can fine tune focus on a larger screen.. I don't know if this even exists, but it'd save some time if I didn't have to download a shot to see if it's in perfect focus or not.. I used an old machinist vise to make a slide for fine tuning a webcam, so can easily adapt it for this camera..

[xpatUSA]

Welcome Jim,

From my own experience, my mind sprang immediately to the Panasonic 12MP DMC-G1, micro-four-thirds system. The manual focus system is excellent for that type of work and you would not need a larger screen, IMHO.

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonicdmcg1

The swiveling 3" live-view LCD is absolutely excellent for manual focusing because, as soon as the focus ring on the lens is touched you can get a 10x magnified view of the subject - giving extremely precise focusing even on small objects.

Get the 14-45mm kit lens with it (not the more plasticy 14-42mm) and you will not be disappointed. If you get more serious, the Leica Elmarit 45mm f/2.8 macro lens takes some beating. Not cheap, though.

[Manfred M]

Jim - time for a reality check. The money you are looking at is not going to get you all the features you are looking at.

1. No problem with manual focus, but most of the digital cameras other than some of the pro ones that have been turned out over the past 10 years have terrible focus screen, so focusing manually is virtually impossible unless you are looking at some of the higher end camera bodies. The prices I've seen are not this low. Check a couple of NYC camera stores (they have great websites for online sales; I order from them frequently); B&H and Adorama.

2. Macro lenses - lenses have held their value a lot more than the camera bodies. Serious macro shooters have always focused manually, so don't expect great deals on used macro lenses. By the way, most macro lenses tend to be fixed focal length, but there are a few macro zooms on the market.

Technically a macro lens should give you 1:1 reproduction; i.e. the object you are photographing will be the same size on the sensor as it is in real life. Some lens manufacturers stretch this a bit and include even 2:1 reproduction as a macro lens.

3. The type of shooting you are looking at is called "shooting tethered". Your camera is connected to the USB port on your computer and shoot directly into the computer. You do need specialized software to handle this and in general this features tends to be implemented on higher end cameras. I find that this software can be a bit flaky. I've never been able to get the freeware to work properly and even Adobe Lightroom can be temperamental at best. I think the software that ships with some of the Canon DSLRs may be "free", but again, you will need a version that is compatible with your camera body. I'm using Phase One Capture One v 9 right now and it is the best I have found for my Nikon cameras. This software could eat up a fair bit of your budget.

You also need to be able to securely attach the tethering cable to the camera (they do fall out all to easily).

[AlwaysOnAuto]

These will get you where you want to go:

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pho/5339147877.html

http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/pho/5331094491.html

[William W]

. . .I want to adjust the focus manually... Does anyone know of a good close up/macro with optical zoom and at least 10MP? Now for the kicker... under $250? I guess you call it product photography, it's small precision model prototypes.. Smallest are 1/8 X 1/8 X 3/4 inch, and the largest are 3 X 3 X 14 inches long.. Depth past 2 inches will rarely be required, as it's mostly for front/side/top blueprint type work... Anyone using one they like they could point me to a few photos from? I'd be perfectly fine with used in good shape if someone is upgrading...
One more thing I'd like to add... IF this feature is even available on cameras, a USB/HDMI/Video out port so I can fine tune focus on a larger screen.. I don't know if this even exists, but it'd save some time if I didn't have to download a shot to see if it's in perfect focus or not.. ...

If budget is a (or the) main criterion, then have a look at the earlier Canon PowerShot Series, obviously second hand. I’d try pawn shops, first –I have found lots of useful stuff there.

I’ve used five (I think) Canon PowerShot Cameras over about 10 years; starting with the S3 IS. I now use an S5 IS and an SX 40 HS.

The SX40HS is 12 Mp and has both HDMI and USB ports. I think the model before it does too.

You will have to research ‘Shooting Tethered’ but I am reasonably sure it is possible if you download third party software, because the default functionality is for the camera to switch “review mode” (i.e. playback the images) when it detects an HDMI or USM voltage, thus disabling the image capture function.

There is a pop out screen which is very sharp and Manual Focus is by way of an enlarged centre section and there is a moving distance scale on the RH side, (which is as useful as teats on a bull), but it is nice to have an indication that the focus is changing – it is very smooth and quite slow, but slow is good. I have never bothered exploring in any detail the shooting tethered option as the screen is fine for manual focusing, for me.

The lens requires a ‘Filter Adapter’ for a 67mm filter. (Mentioned if you are considering using a “Close-Up Filter” on the Lens. I have never bothered with this accessory as I have never needed to fill the frame with anything as small as your minimum size and the “macro” function on the lens has fulfilled my smallest object. Probably there are third party options for the “Canon Filter Adapter” at about one tenth the price of Canon’s original.

One feature of the SX40 HS and other PowerShot models, but not on all PowerShot models, is it has an Hotshoe Mount (for Flash) ad the camera is integrated into the Canon ETTL Flash Functionality.

The SX40 HS captures in JPEG only, some later models do capture both raw and JPEG

I am not suggesting that a PowerShot is the answer for you: and there will be other similar cameras from other manufacturers. I am saying that, as an example, I think that the SX40 HS will do the job you have outlined and probably this, or a similar camera, can be acquired second hand.

Your choice will really depend on the image quality RELATIVE to the enlargement size that you want. Also the USES of the Final Image are an important consideration.

*

I made these very (VERY) quickly to give you a brief visual overview:

This is the SX40 HS camera I used:



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This is an impromptu studio set:



The rule’s increments are mm:

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This is the LCD Screen and making the shot:



The top image shows the screen as it appears in Auto Focus Mode (Half-depress Shutter Release to activate). Note the camera is in Manual Mode and there is an active Histogram and an Under/Over exposure slider. The 3x3 Alignment Grid is User Programmable. The Flower Icon indicates “macro” (aka Close-up) capture mode.

In the bottom image the camera has been switched to Manual Focus. Note the exposure slider is replaced by the Distance Indicator and there is an enlarged centre section for accurate Manual Focussing.

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This is a “side view” Final Image made in that impromptu studio: the purposes of this image for display is to show a “worst case”:



The shot was pulled at F/6.3 @ 1/100th@ ISO400 and it was Hand Held.

I turned the room lights off and closed the window for diffused sunlight; bumped the ISO to ISO 400 (base ISO is ISO100) and I made the shot hand held relying on the Image Stabilization.

The result is not bad but it could be sharper. The surface and finish of the Object requires more attention to better and more appropriate Lighting.

If you need/want good pictorial results, you will need to use and understand Lighting (that’s why I mentioned that many PowerShot models can be used with dedicated Canon ETTL Flash Units.)

*

Here two images will give you an idea of:
the JPEG quality;
the accuracy of the Auto Focus;
the DoF at this typical Framing and Aperture.

This is a JPEG SOOC (Straight Out Of Camera) and has only been downsized for in-line display (use the light-box for the biggest view possible).

The shot was pulled at: F/6.3 @ 1/500th@ ISO100 using Manual Mode; Auto White Balance; Pattern Metering (+⅓Stop); “Close Up” activated; Auto Focus; Subject Distance about 350mm; the Peg is about 80mm long.



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This is a close crop for detail



WW

All Images © AJ Group Pty Ltd Aust 1996~2015, WMW 1965~1996

[jcuknz]

I think you also need to learn about and consider stacking to get the depth of field you appear to want " Smallest are 1/8 X 1/8 X 3/4 inch, and the largest are 3 X 3 X 14 inches long.. Depth past 2 inches will rarely be required,"

I find the lack of indication in your figures as to which is which to be completely un informing ... sorrry but I would expect an engineer to 1/8 square by 3/4 deep, or is it 1/8x3/4 and 1/8 deep.

Whatever you can ignore Aussie Bill's photos because frankly he doesn't know what a close-up is in your context, we have had this argument before unfortunately.

I see one glimmer of hope that you will get what you are after in your comment "as it's mostly for front/side/top blueprint type work"which suggests that you do not need DoF .... fortunately as you just aint got any to speak off in tight frame work.

This gives an idea of what you could get with that MFT G1 which is an obselete but still a fine instrument except I am using a 14-140 zoom which is out of your financial limits

As for the large item size I can give you this little project of mine a mono-pod made out of aluminium RHS which slide inside each other

With the 14-45 lens you would likely need more extension.

One and three show you the problem of lack of DoF when working close but this becomes irrelevant when shooting 'flat' or flat on subjects . Photographers usually want to show depth

So nothing here contradicts what I told you and for somebody on a small budget the FZ70 will handle all you want but spending more money I have better gear but you might get an G1 for US$250
edit
Check this link http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...s=Panasonic+G1 if you are willing to buy 2/h on Amazon.

[jcuknz]

Just for fun and much more than you want is this extreme macro



and the rig ...a combination of contemporary MFT gear with bellows from the last century Tripod is fifty years old too ...I'd look 2/h for that too to fit in your budget



I see now I was using my old 50mm Pentax Takumar from film days too

Illustration of what a plastic magnifying glaaass can get on a bridge camera... one of my model railway figures g scale figures.



Talking of clothes-pegs reminds me of this rig Not an enlargement though that is one way of doing things with slight advantage in regard to DoF.

[xpatUSA]

I think you also need to learn about and consider stacking to get the depth of field you appear to want " Smallest are 1/8 X 1/8 X 3/4 inch, and the largest are 3 X 3 X 14 inches long.. Depth past 2 inches will rarely be required,"

I find the lack of indication in your figures as to which is which to be completely [uninformative] ... sorry but I would expect an engineer to [write] 1/8 square by 3/4 deep, or is it 1/8x3/4 and 1/8 deep.

Nice one, John!

A quick search shows that indeed both the order and even the words vary according to the direction of the wind:

http://watermanswebworld.com/code/measure.html

http://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_the...ht_width_depth

http://scotttroyer.com/2011/09/heigh...-depth-length/
.