First decent outside shot using aperture priority.

[xpatUSA]

The only difference between M and A or S is the lightmeter. M is just a camera with no lightmeter . . .

My feeling is that what you wrote is not what you meant . .

[Stagecoach]

I'm
I'm trying to think of a sporting situation where this method would be preferable and why.

@Stagecoach,
Just as you have white cats and black cats in the snow, you've sportsmen with white shirts and black shirts.
Zooming in or out can give different exposures using matrix metering, you're changing the framing. Shooting in M is much more stable.

George

I fully understand how auto metering is going to react in these sporting situations you mention but also in the same way as similar situations in just about every other area of photography. It's not something specific to sport.

How you set a base exposure (the method used) has little bearing on how you then compensate for it, if at all, if in manual mode. As you clarified in your post No 60 to Dan.

The only difference between M and A or S is the lightmeter. M is just a camera with no lightmeter, just like photographers used for over a century.

I suspect what you meant to say here was 'M is just a camera with no lightmeter making automatic adjustments to any of the exposure settings'

[george013]

I fully understand how auto metering is going to react in these sporting situations you mention but also in the same way as similar situations in just about every other area of photography. It's not something specific to sport.

Well, if you know how auto metering reacts in those sporting situations, then you als know how many different exposure settings you will get. The question is now how to prevent that. The simple answer is M.
Sport photography is often focusing on a part of the field standing at the same place, anticipating on what can happen and make a lot of shots hoping that the ultimate moment is caught. There is no time to think there are many white shirts now, lets try EV+1. A consequent exposure is important. Even if it's to high or to low while editing, you can change them all at once.

M is a camera with no lightmeter. It's in the camera but doesn't have controle over the camera anymore. You still can use it. I can live with your definition.

My thoughts.

George

[jcuknz]

I believe that this thread is reveals as much doggedness as other threads on 'raw v. jpg'.

Brian if you are in a position where you have the same/similar light as falling/shining on the subject the un-tanned caucasian hand [ back of ] can be used to reflectively simulate an incident meter ... depending on the skin tone it is usually suggested to be one stop brighter than the average of the scene, made easy in the old days when people used Weston meters by placing 'C' on the dial to the reading value the meter gave you. The Weston meter had 'A' arrow 'C' positions one stop under and over 'average' [arrow].

In this illustration the arrow is pointing to 1.6 ... a value not listed on the scale but by opening a flap over the photocell a lower range replaced the scale seen above.

I remain un-corrected in suggesting everybody has an incident meter if they know this trick of using a reflected reading to simulate an incident reading.

[jcuknz]

Well, if you know how auto metering reacts in those sporting situations, then you als know how many different exposure settings you will get. The question is now how to prevent that. The simple answer is M.
George

I think I am quote enough here not to be mis-quoting George when I say his conclusion is rubbish
When I look through the EVF of my cameras I have an indicator similar to the needle of a meter and by a single movement of a knurled wheel I can adjust exposure without the silly complications of changing to M and having to consider aperture and shutter speed. If I needed to I would obviously use M but it is really quite pointless in many cases if you know your gear and it works in a similar manner to mine. [ Yeah GO! Panasonic ]
The indicator also reassures me that the camera is giving me an exposure appropriate to the subject when I do not want 'average' or 'correct'.

[Stagecoach]

George, I'm not really sure where you are going with this other than simply suggesting that Manual is the way to go for some sport photography. I would agree that it is or can be a good idea in certain specific circumstances.

Well, if you know how auto metering reacts in those sporting situations, then you als know how many different exposure settings you will get.

Correct, and these exposure settings, if in Auto modes will vary depending upon two factors, what is within your frame along with how it is being metered (spot, matrix etc) and the light reaching what is in the frame.

The question is now how to prevent that.

I would suggest what you mean here is how to manage that situation.

The simple answer is M.

In certain circumstances I would agree that Manual could work well, both in exposure and the ability to assist in batch processing to get a balanced set.

Sport photography is often focusing on a part of the field standing at the same place, anticipating on what can happen and make a lot of shots hoping that the ultimate moment is caught.

Agree

There is no time to think there are many white shirts now, lets try EV+1. A consequent exposure is important. Even if it's to high or to low while editing, you can change them all at once.

All ok until you get massive changes in lighting conditions

M is a camera with no lightmeter. It's in the camera but doesn't have controle over the camera anymore. You still can use it. I can live with your definition.

Good.

[jcuknz]

When I wrote Yeah Go! Panasonic I should have added to be fair that both my Canon and Nikon cameras had it too and I expect it is common to others

[george013]

Graham,
We are coming closer.

George, I'm not really sure where you are going with this other than simply suggesting that Manual is the way to go for some sport photography. I would agree that it is or can be a good idea in certain specific circumstances.

It's not the way but a way.

Correct, and these exposure settings, if in Auto modes will vary depending upon two factors, what is within your frame along with how it is being metered (spot, matrix etc) and the light reaching what is in the frame.

It's irrelevant what kind of metering you use. It's always reflective light and that means the photographer has to analyse what is in his frame. The white and black cat story. It is not the light reaching what is in your frame, when I understand you well, but the light reflected from what is in your frame and reached the sensor.

Going back, I just tried to say that for a photo it doesn't make any difference if you use M, A or S as long you follow the light meter. Most camera's have a EV correction to solve the black and white cat problem. But if you want to abandon the control of the light meter over your camera, than M is the way to go.

George