First Shoot - C&C Please

[gratefulgordons]

Once again John thanks for the great info.

[Manfred M]

John - Without putting words in Colin’s mouth, I rather suspect he would suggest shooting full-frame for portraiture…

I was also going to add that with mFT, with its relatively deep DoF due to the crop factor, I would suggest that a longer lens would actually be more desirable for portraiture (assuming that the shooter can stand far enough away from the subject and keep the camera steady) would be advantageous to throw the background out of focus for non-studio type shots. I’m going to try my 100-300mm Panny for that when I get out to do some street photography to see what (if anything) that buys me.

As for the lens review sites; I do pay attention to the mechanical parts of their reviews (i.e. build quality). The optical components of their reviews are rather meaningless, unless you are shooting using a heavy, weighted tripod in a controlled setting. I find that I get great shots with kit lenses, and focus or camera shake issues are going to negate the theoretical lens resolution anyways. Frankly, modern lenses tend to be very good optically, even the ones that don't do as well on the review sites. When I buy, cost, mechanical build, maximum aperture, consistent maximum aperture throughout the zoom range and focal length (range) tend to be what I look for. I naively assume optical performace will be good enough...

[ajohnw]

John - Without putting words in Colin’s mouth, I rather suspect he would suggest shooting full-frame for portraiture…

I was also going to add that with mFT, with its relatively deep DoF due to the crop factor, I would suggest that a longer lens would actually be more desirable for portraiture (assuming that the shooter can stand far enough away from the subject and keep the camera steady) would be advantageous to throw the background out of focus for non-studio type shots. I’m going to try my 100-300mm Panny for that when I get out to do some street photography to see what (if anything) that buys me.

As for the lens review sites; I do pay attention to the mechanical parts of their reviews (i.e. build quality). The optical components of their reviews are rather meaningless, unless you are shooting using a heavy, weighted tripod in a controlled setting. I find that I get great shots with kit lenses, and focus or camera shake issues are going to negate the theoretical lens resolution anyways. Frankly, modern lenses tend to be very good optically, even the ones that don't do as well on the review sites. When I buy, cost, mechanical build, maximum aperture, consistent maximum aperture throughout the zoom range and focal length (range) tend to be what I look for. I naively assume optical performace will be good enough...

All very well Manfred but the man isn't shooting full frame so Colin might have suggested one focal length. Personally though for a lens for this use I would be very inclined to go for the Panasonic zoom lens I mentioned as that way he covers the full range and also has a lens that is suitable for other use as well. On the mechanical side it seems he gets a weatherproof lens too - I wish they would give them a proper IP rating but anything in that respect is better than nothing.

On your 100-300mm don't under estimate the effect of focal length on peoples faces. I may be one of the few people who had a proper studio portrait taken on medium format for a passport. The person who signed the passport application for me passed the comment "are you sure this is you", followed by "well it doesn't look like you" .A friend of mine had a spare frame left on a roll and used his portrait lens plus a 2 times converter. It might have even been the longer portrait lens. I had many long looks going through customs - probably his idea of a joke but I do have a fairly prominent nose. He had me pose for an adds too - used the same lens set up. Think I finished up as a silhouette. Seems I find it difficult to look menacing.

John
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[ajohnw]

John - Without putting words in Colin’s mouth, I rather suspect he would suggest shooting full-frame for portraiture…

I was also going to add that with mFT, with its relatively deep DoF due to the crop factor, I would suggest that a longer lens would actually be more desirable for portraiture (assuming that the shooter can stand far enough away from the subject and keep the camera steady) would be advantageous to throw the background out of focus for non-studio type shots. I’m going to try my 100-300mm Panny for that when I get out to do some street photography to see what (if anything) that buys me.

As for the lens review sites; I do pay attention to the mechanical parts of their reviews (i.e. build quality). The optical components of their reviews are rather meaningless, unless you are shooting using a heavy, weighted tripod in a controlled setting. I find that I get great shots with kit lenses, and focus or camera shake issues are going to negate the theoretical lens resolution anyways. Frankly, modern lenses tend to be very good optically, even the ones that don't do as well on the review sites. When I buy, cost, mechanical build, maximum aperture, consistent maximum aperture throughout the zoom range and focal length (range) tend to be what I look for. I naively assume optical performace will be good enough...

The main things I look at in technical tests is vignetting and chromatic aberration. Then comes resolution. What I want from a lens is signs that I can double the focal length via crops. Also that camera jpg's will come out sharp at 100% resolution. When shooting a 16mp m 4/3 camera it scales up to roughly a 64mp full frame camera. Despite that I have very few problems with shake even with a 300mm lens on down to so far 1/50 sec just relying on the IS. In fact I have had more problems with focus than camera shake especially on macro work. Only a few odd balls at long focal lengths. That applies to the Panasonic lenses as well. I would be very very surprised if I ever had any problems at all with my 40-150mm.

I start on the basis that there is no way I am going to use a tripod. That's what IS is for.

John
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[MariaMaria]

Image 3 is my favorite! she looks relaxed, it looks sharp (IMO) and I think having her positioned over the rail is nice compositionally as opposed to having her in front. Just my 2cents, I'm a newbie

[gratefulgordons]

Thanks, newbie or not getting tastes of what people like is nice.