Crop Senor Lens Dilema

[realdereal]

So initially I wanted to purchase the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 and the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 but then realizing that the 24-70 on my crop sensor camera wasn't really the range I was after I purchased the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 as I really wasn't thinking about going full frame for another couple of years.

My question is this. I really do think purchasing the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 was the right choice for me but I am waffling about the next lens. For shooting events or situations where I do not want to be up close and personal is the 70-200 f/2.8 still a great choice for a crop sensor or should I go with a more crop sensor equivalent lens like something in the 50-135 range. (If there is such a one)

Your input would be appreciated.

[realdereal]

http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/ap...8-ex-dc-os-hsm

This one looks absolutely beautiful but the listing info scares me:

*Nikon mounts do not have an aperture ring. Some functions may not work with all models.

[Saorsa]

http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/ap...8-ex-dc-os-hsm

This one looks absolutely beautiful but the listing info scares me:

*The Nikon mount lacks a focus ring and some functions may not work properly.
Or some such thing.

It probably lacks an aperture ring and that is the same as the Nikkor G mount lenses. With that mount, all aperture control is from the body.

[realdereal]

It probably lacks an aperture ring and that is the same as the Nikkor G mount lenses. With that mount, all aperture control is from the body.

Thank you but I have no idea what that will mean?
Please explicate if you can.

[Shadowman]

So initially I wanted to purchase the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 and the Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 but then realizing that the 24-70 on my crop sensor camera wasn't really the range I was after I purchased the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 as I really wasn't thinking about going full frame for another couple of years.

My question is this. I really do think purchasing the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 was the right choice for me but I am waffling about the next lens. For shooting events or situations where I do not want to be up close and personal is the 70-200 f/2.8 still a great choice for a crop sensor or should I go with a more crop sensor equivalent lens like something in the 50-135 range. (If there is such a one)

Your input would be appreciated.

You should hold off until you really know what your long focal length needs are and do you really need the f/2.8 at that range. You would know that more than anyone else, what if 200mm doesn't cut it for you and you want something longer? If you have the capacity to purchase more than one extra lens then it doesn't matter, however if you are carrying more than two lenses per journey then it could make a big differerence.

So you really have two things to consider, do you need f/2.8 aperture, everyone wants it including me, and what focal length will meet all of your needs at the long end.

[Inkanyezi]

Thank you but I have no idea what that will mean?
Please explicate if you can.

An aperture ring was a feature of all lenses in the past, before electronic controls took over this function. The aperture ring controls the aperture of the lens, while a lens without one will be controlled from the camera body. The diaphragm that controls the aperture is present in all lenses, but the method of altering aperture physically thus depends on the design of lens and camera body.

Without the aperture ring, there must be electrical connection between the camera body and the lens to control the aperture, while this is not necessary with lenses that have the aperture ring. This is important when the lens is used for example with bellows for close-up work or turned end-for-end, so that the mount of the lens will not have contact with the mount on the camera body.

When mounted on the camera body, the lens without the aperture ring can be controlled without any fuss, while the lens that has the aperture ring must be set not to use it, to the closest aperture, often at the f/32 position, so that the camera body can control the aperture instead of the ring. The "ring" itself is a ring around the mount of the lens, just as a zoom ring or focusing ring. On Nikon lenses, it is always closest to the mount. Other brands may have it elsewhere, often it sits at the other end of the lens.

[realdereal]

An aperture ring was a feature of all lenses in the past, beforeping electronic controls took over this function. The aperture ring controls the aperture of the lens, while a lens without one will be controlled from the camera body. The diaphragm that controls the aperture is present in all lenses, but the method of altering aperture physically thus depends on the design of lens and camera body.

Without the aperture ring, there must be electrical connection between the camera body and the lens to control the aperture, while this is not necessary with lenses that have the aperture ring. This is important when the lens is used for example with bellows for close-up work or turned end-for-end, so that the mount of the lens will not have contact with the mount on the camera body.

When mounted on the camera body, the lens without the aperture ring can be controlled without any fuss, while the lens that has the aperture ring must be set not to use it, to the closest aperture, often at the f/32 position, so that the camera body can control the aperture instead of the ring. The "ring" itself is a ring around the mount of the lens, just as a zoom ring or focusing ring. On Nikon lenses, it is always closest to the mount. Other brands may have it elsewhere, often it sits at the other end of the lens.

Does anyone know how this applies to a Nikon D5200?
I think I may need a chalkboard for this explanation.

Thank you Inkanyezi. I am thinking this means it will work just fine on my camera I am hoping.

[Saorsa]

Thank you but I have no idea what that will mean?
Please explicate if you can.

It means that you have to have the lens mounted on a camera to have accurate control of the aperture.

Here are three Micro-Nikkors. The two on the left (55mm and 60mm) are Nikon F mount lenses and have an aperture ring. The one on the right (105mm) is a Nikon G mount lens and you can see that there is no aperture ring to control the aperture.



As noted above this means that the lens will be difficult to use without an electrical connection to the camera.

This picture shows the 18-55 mm reversed on the camera. You will notice that I had to use a piece of card to wedge the aperture control lever in the fully open position. Without it, focus was impossible.

[Saorsa]

The Nikon 5200 will generally accept and control modern G mount lenses from any manufacturer. That means that your Tamron should work just fine. The exception might be an older used lens which does not have current firmware.

[rpcrowe]

I shoot Canon 1.6x crop DSLR cameras and my go-to, mid-range, zoom lens is the Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS. I back this up with the 70-200mm f/4L IS as my go-to telephoto lens. I carry these lenses all the time and do not use the telephoto for only standard telephoto situations like sports. Instead, I use the 70-200mm range for general photography, for portraits and for over 1/3 of my travel and general photography imagery.

I find that I do not miss the gap between 55mm and 70mm to any great degree and I do like the 200mm range on the long side of my telephoto. I often use the lens at its maximum focal length which is a 320mm equivalent on my crop cameras.

However, and this is a very big "HOWEVER"; I always shoot with two bodies so I have instant access to either focal range (17-55mm or 70-200mm). If I were shooting with single body, the 50mm side of the Sigma lens might be quite handy because I might not have to switch lenses quite as often.

On the other hand, since I shoot with a pair of cameras, the weight of my lenses is quite important. Carrying the extra camera and a lens about the weight of the Sigma 50-150mm or a 70-200mm f/2.8 (series) would be too much for me. I can carry my 70-200mm f/4L IS lens AND the extra 1.6x camera at just about the weight of the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L (series) lens alone.

I have found that with the excellent Image Stabilization of the 70-200mm f/4L IS, I am quite happy with this lens. I do not absolutely need an f/2.8 aperture. I can blur the background quite readily with my f/4L at a longer focal length.



The above image was shot using 144mm at f/8. That kept the entire bronze statue of the Phoenix in focus, yet allowed the background to go out-of-focus.

[DanK]

For shooting events or situations where I do not want to be up close and personal is the 70-200 f/2.8 still a great choice for a crop sensor or should I go with a more crop sensor

It all depends on what YOU shoot. However, for my uses: like Richard, I find a 70-200 to be an extremely useful range on a crop-sensor camera. Like Richard, I use the Canon 70-200 f/4 IS. Since you shoot Nikon, you obviously can't use one, but the reasons I chose it might be relevant. I found f/4 adequately fast for my uses. I didn't want to pay twice as much and lug around literally twice the weight to get an f/2.8. for me, that turned out to be the best choice. For you, it might not be. Some lenses in this price range are quite expensive, so it would be worth figuring out in more detail how you would use it, e.g., whether the extra stop would matter to you. It does to some people, e.g., people who need faster focusing in low-light athletic events.

[PhotomanJohn]

+1 for the 70-200mm f/4 lens. I have the Nikon version which is as sharp or sharper than the f/2.8 and small enough to fit in my bag. I don't miss the extra stop. If is an awesome lens for a lot less money.

John