Image resolution V Quality

[JEMS]

Hi, Can anyone tell me if setting my camera to its maximum resolution (largest file size) and a slow ISO setting if it can have detrimental affect image quality. I have noticed that sometimes images are sharp and others are fuzzy. My camera has the reputation for producing lots of noise at higher ISO setting (200 and above) but I am working at the bottom of the range. I always try to take my pictures at the fullest settings possible to retain as much detail and sharpness as I can and the work the file back in Photoshop to my preference, but I noticed that the relationship between aperture settings and film speed is not the same in digital as in film.

It’s all most imposable to force a sharp image sometime even when using image stabilization and a tripod, So is it possible to make a camera over work an image and record to much information ?

[Colin Southern]

Hi Jems,

Generally Max resolution and low ISO are two ingredients for sharp & noise-free images - but - other things come into it too ...

- If you instruct the camera to use a low ISO then you may get a low shutterspeed; a tripod should eliminate camera shake, but it does nothing to freeze subject motion.

- The camera may also try to compensate by using the widest aperture possible - you images may appear blurry due to lack of depth of field.

- Although low ISO settings generally equate to lower image noise, this only holds true for correct exposures; if you're having to brighten the image considerable in post-processing then you'd have been better off using a higher ISO in the first place.

Other than that, it would be great if we could see some samples - might help us figure out what's going wrong for you.

[Shadowman]

Hi, Can anyone tell me if setting my camera to its maximum resolution (largest file size) and a slow ISO setting if it can have detrimental affect image quality. I have noticed that sometimes images are sharp and others are fuzzy. My camera has the reputation for producing lots of noise at higher ISO setting (200 and above) but I am working at the bottom of the range. I always try to take my pictures at the fullest settings possible to retain as much detail and sharpness as I can and the work the file back in Photoshop to my preference, but I noticed that the relationship between aperture settings and film speed is not the same in digital as in film.

It’s all most imposable to force a sharp image sometime even when using image stabilization and a tripod, So is it possible to make a camera over work an image and record to much information ?

JEMS,

It would help to know the camera model also, a camera that produces noise above ISO 200 does not sound like a good choice, although this also depends on what the maximum speed is.

[JEMS]

Hi,
My camera is a Canon G10 which on its day can produces some very good results but I`am being very fussy with this one and I tend to look for the same qulity that I use to get with my film cameras. I was trying find out if digital cameras have an optimum setting envelope within the control range. Just pushing everything to the full somethime isn`t always the best!

[Ricko]

It’s all most imposable to force a sharp image sometime even when using image stabilization and a tripod

As I understand it, you shouldn't use IS when using a tripod as the IS is looking for movement which isn't there which can cause blurred images.
I have the same problem with my photography too and I'm using a 50D with a EF 28-135 lens. I did an experiment with a rose in a vase. Using a tripod, IS off, remote switch and mirror lockup. With this setup I was hoping to get a sharp image. Nope!
Conclusion is that it must be the glass or my technique As I know the 50D can take sharp images with decent glass on it!
Just interested to see where this thread goes !!

[JEMS]

My personal conclusion is that most mid range camera systems do not allow you to force an image no matter how many function they have fitted. I have also observed that lot of photographers except poor images to be the result of technique not so, I trust my methods and camera craft, sometime technology is trying too hard.


Still getting a big kick out my photography even after 20 plus years...!

[Ricko]

sometime technology is trying too hard.

hehe, well if thats the case there might be hope for me yet

[JEMS]

Hi Colin, thanks for the reply
I only have a few images with me at work, I have put up on my profile in a folder, may be not the best of poor ones if that make sence! but the second image is a good example of what I call fuzzy.

[Colin Southern]

Hi Colin, thanks for the reply
I only have a few images with me at work, I have put up on my profile in a folder, may be not the best of poor ones if that make sence! but the second image is a good example of what I call fuzzy.

No worries Jems. By the way, here's a link to the gallery for anyone else who might like to take a look.

It can be difficult to accurately evaluate problems with images when they're down-sampled to such a degree (as need to be able to display online), but having said that, they basically look OK, except that they don't appear to have been sharpened properly - so possibly the camera side of it is fine, and it's just the post-processing side we need to work on?

Is this any better?

[Shadowman]

Hi,
My camera is a Canon G10 which on its day can produces some very good results but I`am being very fussy with this one and I tend to look for the same qulity that I use to get with my film cameras. I was trying find out if digital cameras have an optimum setting envelope within the control range. Just pushing everything to the full somethime isn`t always the best!

JEMS,

http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/d...+powershot+g10
See the above link regarding your model. If you plan to keep this model, which I can't see why you wouldn't, I would try to consider some work around techniques to get better photographs at higher ISO settings.

1. Setup a still life and set the camera to its maximum ISO setting.
2. Use standard room lighting, from a lamp if possible. Set the correct white balance. Set the camera to auto and take the photograph of the item of your choice. Use with and without flash, check exposure and reset if too much light has reached the camera's sensor.
3. Use the scene mode and try different modes, especially night portrait.
4. Repeat for each ISO setting.

I have a few photos that I will upload later that was shot with a Nikon S220 at ISO 3200.
4. Repeat

[Geoff F]

Ricko, the Canon 28-135 is a very good lens for the money so you should get decent photos with it. Perhaps your problem is being caused by one of the other variables. I found that lens, like most lenses, works best around the middle settings; say F8 to F11.

I have used it on a tripod with and without IS and haven't really noticed any difference either way. When working out of doors a lot depends on the conditions on the day. And my experiments made me convinced that cable release and mirror lock up don't matter a lot either providing you have a reasonable shutter speed and ISO settings. Although possibly a bit of an improvement when using a low shutter speed in difficult conditions.

Recently I purchased a Canon 24-105 as a replacement for my 28-135 but found that in side by side tests, the 28-135 was actually a fraction sharper at the centre than the 24-105 which was twice the price. But the dearer lens is a stronger construction and does perform better towards the edges and under difficult light.

Sometimes I find one image in a series is well blurred and think that either the subject moved or, more likely, my shutter finger jerked a bit on that one. Even IS won't always compensate for operator error.

One other point that I found is I get better results by setting my camera auto 'enhancements' to zero then adjusting sharpness and saturation etc for each individual image during editing instead of at the time of shooting.