One vote for continue.
Steve, you really need to wet swab, to get that stuff off. After using a premoistened wet swab, i use a sensor pen to clean up any streaking. You'll be done in 5 or 10 min.
Steve:
I will assume that the second image is after you cleaned the sensor.
It's much better but there is a new spot top centre, but it seems that part of this was prior to the first cleaning as it's still there.
From this I conclude that you've just been blowing, not swabbing.
I'd blow some more.
Even after I've done a wet cleaning, I often have to blow a few more times to get rid of the stuff that truly is DUST. By dust, I mean the stuff that is floating everywhere in the air that is not usually visible unless a sun's ray shines on it.
You likely know this, but if the above shots were taken at f/16 or f/22, and you mostly shoot at f/3.5 or even f/8, the spots won't show up on your images.
And after you've blown a few more times and tested, if the spot is still there and you use small apertures, then swabbing/wet cleaning is in order.
It is not difficult - it just seems that way at first. Follow the directions and it's simple.
Glenn
PS (rant - not for the sensitive):
Airborne dust that floats cannot be kept out of the camera by pointing the body down during lens changes - it will float upward as easily as it will float downward, so pointing the body in a particular direction is pretty well ineffective. If the airborne "dust" is large enough to actually fall by gravity (dust storm), I wouldn't change a lens - in fact I wouldn't even take my camera out of the bag - stuff that is visible and that falls by gravity is sometimes called grit.
Cheers Glen, Steve and Andrew. The second is wet swabbed and I can only think the marks are water condensation. I am a bit awkward and have shaky hands so it takes longer. I will have another go at it tomorrow.
If it's any consolation to you, I usually have to do several wet swabbings; one swab rarely cures the problem.
The product I use recommends using 2 or 3 drops of fluid on a swab or wet streaks are possible. I've been guilty of using more, and I could see the little tracks of fluid on the sensor surface which required using a drier one.
Glenn
I give up, I can count 8 left after two more wet swabs. I'm not safe around it, a hair was left on the sensor left by the swab and I nearly stuck my finger in to get it out. Dust aid wouldn't pick it up and I nearly blew on it. This all could have happened because of the torrential rain I've been stuck in for most of the time.
The above were the top left of the sensor but this is all of it.
f32 @50mm
By the way what product did you use Glenn, I got Dust Aid because it was cheapest. It says that it should be replaced every year but I can't see a sell by date and it is probably three years old now. It doesn't pick up fibres though.
I use a product called Sensor Clean. It's made in Canada by a company called Visible Dust, so may not be available where you live although according to their website they deliver many other places.
http://www.visibledust.com/contact.php?country=Canada
Many people use the Copperhill Images.
http://www.copperhillimages.com/
Now I'll reveal a deep, dark secret: I had a blower and found it useless, so I use Dust-Off to blow my sensors. Although many claim that the (compressed refrigerant) will stick to the sensor, I follow strict procedures: I never shake the can, in fact I don't even move it around on my desk. I keep the can absolutely stationery, and move the camera about. Then I use two or three quick short blasts - no more at one time - this prevents "freezing" the sensor. I say this somewhat tongue in cheek, as many claim that use of the refrigerant will freeze the sensor.
The reason I use the compressed refrigerant is that it has no dust in it (unlike the air we breathe), and won't add more little bits of dust to the mirror box. It comes out fairly strongly, and will dislodge any clinging bits of stuff. I've always felt that using a bulb blower just added more of the dirty air that some are so worried about.
Glenn
Glenn - I hope you feel lucky - I used a compressed can and thought it the safest method but a month or so ago the can suddenly blew a big lump of gunk onto my sensor and I had to send it away to be cleaned off.
In the future, regardless of what so many people say, I will NOT try to clean the sensor myself but will trust it to the experts.
Cheers Glenn, mine is a bit harder to use than that with a little square of fine paper to wrap around a wand and very fast evaporating fluid. It could even be the case that those 8 spots could be new spots due to friction and static. I've seen something that looks similar and at around £20 for 5 seems much better value than £80 for 50 squares and a paddle, since I've only cleaned the sensor 3 times in 3 years.
http://dust-aid.com/08dustwandkit.html
I'm not lucky, I'm very (pathetically even) careful. Been using it for seven years on two bodies - no mishaps yet.
Any guck should be at the bottom of the can - that's why it is essential to neither shake the can nor to move it. The guck stays at the bottom.
DIRECTIONS: DO NOT SHAKE. KEEP CAN UPRIGHT.
Unfortunately these are printed at the end of all the other warnings - likely at the point where most of us stop reading.![]()
And if we don't read that part, there is something natural in shaking an aerosol can - and it gets shaken. Pity.
Note that I didn't recommend the use of the can - I just confessed to using it.
Glenn
Last edited by Glenn NK; 3rd June 2013 at 07:46 PM.
I have found that one or two swabs are needed, but that is essential to just dampen the swab, not wet it, The sensor then stays dry, all problems stem from fluid that dries on the sensor as a minute drop.