Shooting In Full Manual Mode

[johnbharle]

I got a lensbaby for my nikon last summer. I have a handheld light meter also, and that helps to start. But once I started, I just looked at how the photos came out and adjusted. my shutter speed to get a good exposure. Remember, the Lensbaby is pretty much aperture driven.

[arith]

Well apart from using a Brownie I've never used auto; but it isn't really hard.



I'm on a tourist boat doing about 30mph and I've got my 17-50mm f2.8 on the camera, I know cropping is a no no because it loses resolution and I know that shadows under the bridge will lose definition if I expose wrong.

I also know at f6.4 giving best resolution the hyperfocal distance is 2.3 to 23 metres, and since I'm in the middle of a river setting the lens at infinity will give everything in focus.

I also know this is a round trip; I'm coming back again and so I can check out the focal lengths on the way up, and also knowing we are moving, choose a speed Tv fast enough to freeze the action, and using spot metering choose a point brightest in the scene to overexpose by 1+2/3 ev, or more simply move the needle in the viewfinder far enough to the right without causing it to blink.

Then the fun starts on the way back, you know 35mm is best, your set at f6.4, you have the speed set and so it is a matter of only waiting until everything hits thirds in the viewfinder, and adjusting by one click or two with the speed or aperture.

It is the same with birds;



Planning, it is all in the planning.

[allenlennon]

i would suggest get the book "Understanding exposure 3rd Edition" By Bryan Peterson. It helped me alot! It tells you how to set the exposure, how to do creative exposures and than more. It helped me alot since i got it last week. On cost $8 for my kindle.

[Photon Hacker]

I find it surprising than nobody has suggested the tutorials on this site (Linked from the home page too). They're overall the most accurate and useful explanation I have found of its type. You can donate those $8 for a good cause, no need to buy anything, let alone restraining devices.

[MajaMolly]

I got a lensbaby for my nikon last summer. I have a handheld light meter also, and that helps to start. But once I started, I just looked at how the photos came out and adjusted. my shutter speed to get a good exposure. Remember, the Lensbaby is pretty much aperture driven.

Thank you, John. I think... you have a good plan!

[MajaMolly]

i would suggest get the book "Understanding exposure 3rd Edition" By Bryan Peterson. It helped me alot! It tells you how to set the exposure, how to do creative exposures and than more. It helped me alot since i got it last week. On cost $8 for my kindle.

I have this book next to me right now. Thanks.

[MajaMolly]

I find it surprising than nobody has suggested the tutorials on this site (Linked from the home page too). They're overall the most accurate and useful explanation I have found of its type. You can donate those $8 for a good cause, no need to buy anything, let alone restraining devices.

Thanks, Mario. I've read most of them at least once. Sometimes I have a tough time understanding the way they are written. I'll go through them again and see If they make more sense.

[Saskwatch]

I shoot with Pentax and I also have a Lensbaby with some extra accesories. Actually I LOVE my Lensbaby and have lots of fun with it. I had a bit of an idea about manual settings with my other lenses but was a long way from being an expert. I got very frustrated at first trying to get a decent picture - there is a lot to remember all at once. Eventually I got used to using the little aperture inserts but I don't always pick the best one first. I have the close up filters too.

I rather wish the Sweet 35 had been available when I first got into Lensbaby equipment as it seems much easier to use for a beginner. However, it doesn't do the Creative Filter things and you need to buy different sized set of close up filters for macro work.

[MajaMolly]

I shoot with Pentax and I also have a Lensbaby with some extra accesories. Actually I LOVE my Lensbaby and have lots of fun with it. I had a bit of an idea about manual settings with my other lenses but was a long way from being an expert. I got very frustrated at first trying to get a decent picture - there is a lot to remember all at once. Eventually I got used to using the little aperture inserts but I don't always pick the best one first. I have the close up filters too.

I rather wish the Sweet 35 had been available when I first got into Lensbaby equipment as it seems much easier to use for a beginner. However, it doesn't do the Creative Filter things and you need to buy different sized set of close up filters for macro work.

Thank you, Hazel. I'm thinking about the Sweet 35 but noticed the same about the filter set. I haven't ordered anything...yet... still thinking it all through and working with my camera on manual.

[MajaMolly]

Using the histogram is probably moe useful than an external meter with the lensbaby. I'm guessing that you are tripod mounting the camera and then fiddling with the lensbaby to get the composition right? At that point you can try different shutter speeds and check the histogram to see which way to go. If you were shooting in a "from the hip" style, like street photography, you'd not get another chance at the shot, so an external meter would be useful. With the lensbaby, you're more likely to do a static setup shot and have plenty fiddle time.

I will be hand holding or resting my camera on...something - as I don't currently have a tripod.

[Graystar]

I don't have a Lensbaby but I have a Nikon D90 and I run into the same problem when attaching my camera to my telescope, or simply putting duck tape over the lens mount and pricking it to make a pinhole camera. The consumer Nikon's (before the D7000) simply won't meter.

You have three choices. You can get a handheld meter. That will be fairly accurate and may turn out to be the fastest. Or you can "chimp" the histogram. You keep checking the histogram across multiple tries, adjusting shutter as you go. When the histogram looks "right" (whatever that means) you're done.

The third way is to work from an Exposure Value table. This requires carrying two charts (which you can just print double-sided.) The first is an EV table that gives you the F-number and shutter combination for a particular EV. The second is a list of common EV values for various lighting conditions (a list that you'll continue to add to with experience.)

Here's an example of an EV table...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposur...amera_settings

Here's an example of the EV values...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposur...xposure_values

This method starts by you evaluating the light on your subject. For example...from the EV list above, if you're in an area of open shade and conditions are clear sunlight, then your EV is 12. Next, you check which aperture you have in your lens, and check the EV table for that F-number and EV. So if you think the lighting is 12 EV, and you have an f/2.8 aperture in your Lensbaby, then the shutter is 1/500s. (If you're not shooting at ISO 100, then simply move down a row for every doubling of ISO...so ISO 200 is the next row, ISO 400 is two rows down, etc.)

This method is fairly straight-forward and it teaches exposure well, because you see exposure as more than just a combination of aperture and shutter. You'll eventually memorize part of the table and learn to deduce the parts you didn't remember, and you won't need to carry the charts anymore. You'll be able to set exposure fairly well just by looking at the light...which would be quite an impressive skill to have in an age of intelligent metering modes that do everything but press the shutter for you (oh wait...they now have "smile detection" mode...that presses the shutter for you.)

[MajaMolly]

I don't have a Lensbaby but I have a Nikon D90 and I run into the same problem when attaching my camera to my telescope, or simply putting duck tape over the lens mount and pricking it to make a pinhole camera. The consumer Nikon's (before the D7000) simply won't meter.

You have three choices. You can get a handheld meter. That will be fairly accurate and may turn out to be the fastest. Or you can "chimp" the histogram. You keep checking the histogram across multiple tries, adjusting shutter as you go. When the histogram looks "right" (whatever that means) you're done.

The third way is to work from an Exposure Value table. This requires carrying two charts (which you can just print double-sided.) The first is an EV table that gives you the F-number and shutter combination for a particular EV. The second is a list of common EV values for various lighting conditions (a list that you'll continue to add to with experience.)

Here's an example of an EV table...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposur...amera_settings

Here's an example of the EV values...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposur...xposure_values

This method starts by you evaluating the light on your subject. For example...from the EV list above, if you're in an area of open shade and conditions are clear sunlight, then your EV is 12. Next, you check which aperture you have in your lens, and check the EV table for that F-number and EV. So if you think the lighting is 12 EV, and you have an f/2.8 aperture in your Lensbaby, then the shutter is 1/500s. (If you're not shooting at ISO 100, then simply move down a row for every doubling of ISO...so ISO 200 is the next row, ISO 400 is two rows down, etc.)

This method is fairly straight-forward and it teaches exposure well, because you see exposure as more than just a combination of aperture and shutter. You'll eventually memorize part of the table and learn to deduce the parts you didn't remember, and you won't need to carry the charts anymore. You'll be able to set exposure fairly well just by looking at the light...which would be quite an impressive skill to have in an age of intelligent metering modes that do everything but press the shutter for you (oh wait...they now have "smile detection" mode...that presses the shutter for you.)

Thank you for the great info and the links, Graystar.

[johnbharle]

One thing to remember about lensbaby is that it is an aperture priority system. You just have to manually figure out your shutter speed. I pick the smallest f number, because I want the most distortion. Then I use my light meter to figure out what shutter speed I should try first. After that, I just look at my pictures. You can always adjust exposure in lightroom. That said, I like the idea of using the histograms. That's an area I'm not quite so educated in, however.

I was interested to read about macro inserts for the LB. I'm going to have to look into those. Sounds interesting.

PS. I got the sweet 35 package when I got mine. I like it better because I can simply dial up the aperture I want. Don't have to carry around the magnetic inserter and all those rings (which are likely to get lost with me :-) ).

[Saskwatch]

I already had a set of Tiffen close up filters that we used on a different lens. It seemed to make the most sense to buy the relevant step up ring for my Sweet 35 and use these. All the photography accesories are shared with my partner (filters, lenses, seldom used bits and pieces). It took only a few weeks to realise that this wasn't going to work as the Tiffens could rarely be found (partner had them!). So partner bought me a second set for Christmas - problem solved!

[MajaMolly]

One thing to remember about lensbaby is that it is an aperture priority system. You just have to manually figure out your shutter speed. I pick the smallest f number, because I want the most distortion. Then I use my light meter to figure out what shutter speed I should try first. After that, I just look at my pictures. You can always adjust exposure in lightroom. That said, I like the idea of using the histograms. That's an area I'm not quite so educated in, however.

I was interested to read about macro inserts for the LB. I'm going to have to look into those. Sounds interesting.

PS. I got the sweet 35 package when I got mine. I like it better because I can simply dial up the aperture I want. Don't have to carry around the magnetic inserter and all those rings (which are likely to get lost with me :-) ).

Thank you, John. I'm glad to hear that people that have Lensbaby enjoy it.

[johnbharle]

I took this with my LB last summer. Don't remember how many tries before I got the right exposure, but I liked the effect.

[MajaMolly]

I've been shooting in manual mode as much as I can with various lenses (I haven't ordered the Lensbaby...yet) and...am getting a bit better with the settings. I seem to be at least getting 'close'.

Thanks for sharing the pic. The Lensbaby can render some really interesting images.

[enaiman]

What do I find most helpful when shooting in Manual mode? LiveView and Exposure Simulation.
When not using these two, I do the following:
- make sure first that my ISO is set to 100
- I am setting the aperture according to what kind of depth of field I want
- setting the time to around 1/125
- press shutter button halfway and I notice where the exposure cursor is (underexposed, overexposed..)
- adjust the timer up/down as needed in order to bring the exposure cursor to the middle
- notice what is the value for the timer
* if shooting on a tripod then it doesn't matter
* if shooting handheld, I try to bring it down to at the most 1/40 (with image stabilization ON)
- in order to bring the timer to an acceptable value, I increase the ISO and watch the timer value again
- if my ISO reaches about 800 and the timer is still not good then I am considering increasing the aperture
- if increasing the aperture all the way and having a high ISO does not bring the timer to an acceptable value then, all I can do is try to work with the best timer value I can get and eventually I try to use any means to increase my hand stability.

Well, if you are not working in low-light conditions then you will be able to get the correct settings very fast.

This is what "I do"; I am an amateur photographer and the only advice I can give is based on my experience.
Of course there are more variables to be taken into account but what I tried to describe was the way I deal with Manual mode.

[MajaMolly]

What do I find most helpful when shooting in Manual mode? LiveView and Exposure Simulation.
When not using these two, I do the following:
- make sure first that my ISO is set to 100
- I am setting the aperture according to what kind of depth of field I want
- setting the time to around 1/125
- press shutter button halfway and I notice where the exposure cursor is (underexposed, overexposed..)
- adjust the timer up/down as needed in order to bring the exposure cursor to the middle
- notice what is the value for the timer
* if shooting on a tripod then it doesn't matter
* if shooting handheld, I try to bring it down to at the most 1/40 (with image stabilization ON)
- in order to bring the timer to an acceptable value, I increase the ISO and watch the timer value again
- if my ISO reaches about 800 and the timer is still not good then I am considering increasing the aperture
- if increasing the aperture all the way and having a high ISO does not bring the timer to an acceptable value then, all I can do is try to work with the best timer value I can get and eventually I try to use any means to increase my hand stability.

Well, if you are not working in low-light conditions then you will be able to get the correct settings very fast.

This is what "I do"; I am an amateur photographer and the only advice I can give is based on my experience.
Of course there are more variables to be taken into account but what I tried to describe was the way I deal with Manual mode.

Thank you, Eugene.

[klobberer]

What finally made it click for me as a newbie(I've only been doing it a month) was making sure I knew what all the viewfinder info meant. I start at a low ISO and turn the command dial until the exposure indicator was centered. Then I will note the shutter speed and if it is as fast as the lens focal length (1/50th for 50mm) I pull the trigger. If the shutter speed is too slow, I can up the ISO or use a larger aperture. This is strictly for hand held shots. As a newbie, learning about that exposure indicator was key. Good luck!

Brian