Unsharp photos at 840mm using 1.4x teleconverter

[pnodrog]

Good technique is somewhat counter intuitive. We have a tendency to keep our hands off of the camera, barely touch it to press the shutter, use a remote release, etc. That all works great with a landscape kit. But with a long lens the opposite is needed. As was pointed out already via the link and Manfred's comment, you can effectively add weight by using your off hand to press down on top of the lens while firmly gripping it with your shooting hand. For me this method also makes it easier to smoothly swing the lens for tracking birds in flight.

Another thing that is counter intuitive is that VR/IS works better if you are holding onto your camera than it does when using a remote release. Generally speaking the electronics work better when there is vibration to correct(like shaky hands). Recall that(for that reason) with the early gen VR/IS systems manufacturers instructed us to turn it off when on a tripod.

Missed Manfred's reference to this method but I certainly agree with using the hands for dampening movement.

Keeping a downward pressure on the camera sitting on a tripod and then choosing the best of several shots taken in quick succession is a technique I use often when taking landscape photographs in very windy conditions. The dampening effect of our body seems to act like a shock absorber and helps suppress the resonance that can exist in rigid systems. This approach works well with VR/IS on.

[rpcrowe]

I would do a bit of trouble shooting if I were in your situation.

First, I would shoot at a very high shutter speed using your present tripod and head combination... You are at an effective focal length of 1344mm and I would shoot at least at 1/2000 second. I would shoot a series of exposures at 1/4000 second down to 1/500 second and see if I could see at what point the image becomes less sharp.

(BTW: I like the fact that the tripod foot of this lens is set up for an Arca Compatible Clamp. I wish that Canon had put that thought into the tripod foot of the 100-400mm f/4..5-5.6L IS II lens. Instead, I ended up with having to purchase an after-market, third party foot for my 100-400L II lens)

Second, I would try to eliminate the possible vibration problem with the Manfrotto Tripod and Jobu Head. I would do this by placing the camera/lens on a very solid surface (wall or sturdy picnic table) on some type of bag filled with polystyrene or gravel. I would then place a bag of gravel over the combination and then shoot using the self timer to activate the shutter. Again, I would do this with a series of different shutter speeds and f/stops...

Perhaps, you might contact Romy Ocon, the excellent Filipino bird photographer and ask him for his opinion. Here is his website

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone

and here is an unbelievable combination he has shot with.

http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone/image/59586426

[terrib]

I edited point #7 in my response to clarify that I get sharp shots at 600mm handheld without the 1.4x.

Do I understand you? Does a timer of x sec means a delay of x sec?

George

Yes. In point #8 of my response I was describing some shots I took that led me to the conclusion the problem might be camera shake and led me to the tests I describe in my original post. I didn't have my remote shutter release so used the in-camera timer. First tried the 2 second delay after pushing the shutter manually and then the 10 second delay. 2 sec still resulted in blur but 10 seconds gave a couple of decent shots.

[george013]

I edited point #7 in my response to clarify that I get sharp shots at 600mm handheld without the 1.4x.



Yes. In point #8 of my response I was describing some shots I took that led me to the conclusion the problem might be camera shake and led me to the tests I describe in my original post. I didn't have my remote shutter release so used the in-camera timer. First tried the 2 second delay after pushing the shutter manually and then the 10 second delay. 2 sec still resulted in blur but 10 seconds gave a couple of decent shots.

But you didn't try it with mirror up? The link I gave you is about motion of the camera/lens on a tripod. And gives a good idea of what is happening when you press the button. Not your physical impact but of the mirror and curtain.
Try it with mirror up. And if it works, see how low you can come with the ss.

George

[pnodrog]

You could try shooting some distant bright lights at night. Do not worry overly about exposure but compensate to an extent with ISO adjustments. If the long exposure (10 sec+) is sharper than say a 1/10 second exposure your problem will probably be mirror slap etc. If the 10 sec+ exposure is softer than the 1/10 sec exposure it will be camera movement/tripod stability that is the most likely culprit. If there is very little difference it is probably the lens combination. (P.S. or all three factors contributing....)

[Stagecoach]

Lots of suggestions coming up but perhaps the most important thing is to determine a logical primary test programme that makes analysis easiest.

To start with I would concentrate on the existing tripod/rig setup that is most likely to be used in the field.

a) Set up using a target in the far distance (a bright light at night as Paul has mentioned is ideal) without any wind, focus and lock focus for the remainder of testing.

b) Take a shot using (sweet spot, lowest ISO possible) MLU and remote release waiting 5 seconds after the mirror has gone up before the shot. You could take additional shots waiting say, 2,5,8 and 10 seconds. (later you can compare these to see if there is any appreciable difference in sharpness).

c) Take a shot without MLU.

d) Take a shot using the camera release button. You could take a number to see the affect of repeat-ability.

e) Take shots using various SSs. Take each first using remote release then camera button.

Record exactly what you are doing for each shot whilst doing the above.

Download and analyse the results.

Were the ones with MLU and delay of acceptable sharpness?
Were the subsequent ones all inferior?
Were there any that produced equal results to the MLU & delay?

Depending upon the analysis and results further tests could be undertaken using viable damping methods.

[rpcrowe]

Terri,

Have you queried Tamron regarding the lens/TC combination....

[chauncey]

I might suggest that the IQ of the Tamron will in no way compare to that of a Canon or Nikon prime
with/without an extender.

[Stagecoach]

I might suggest that the IQ of the Tamron will in no way compare to that of a Canon or Nikon prime
with/without an extender.

How does that comment assist Terri?

[terrib]

Terri,

Have you queried Tamron regarding the lens/TC combination....

Richard, I bought the lens & tc based on the compatibility info found on their website HERE. After autofocus completely failed on tests I tried today, I called them to find out if there were any settings or conditions I was causing that would make the autofocus not work. They said that autofocus should work with my camera/lens combination under the lighting conditions and settings that I was using today. Since I'm within my 30 day return, they suggested I contact B&H and exchange the TC for another copy. So that is what I have done.

I really have 2 issues going on here. First, was determining whether the autofocus was working. Second, was determining whether my setup was causing issues.

On the second issue (my setup) I was unable to set up the tests as it's been snowing and windy all day so there just wasn't enough light to get to the high shutter speeds with a reasonable ISO. I know some of your suggestions didn't require the high SS but I'd rather set up and go through all the variables at one time. The few tests I did do today using manual focus resulted in decent sharpness with low shutter speeds and no changes to my setup from yesterday - which makes no sense. So I think we just need to let all this sink in and let me start fresh with all your ideas on another day. And now, it's time for me to heed Mike's advice and open a bottle of wine!

[Mike Buckley]

And now, it's time for me to heed Mike's advice and open a bottle of wine!

Is there any doubt in anybody's mind that I gave the best advice in the thread?

[pnodrog]

Is there any doubt in anybody's mind that I gave the best advice in the thread?

Sorry Mike but that was terrible advice. I know from personal research that horizons tilt, the camera won't stay still and the nine legs of the tripods become impossibly complicated.

[dje]

This is one of those occasions on which I'm certain Paul's research is believable.

The other problem Terri is that when you wake up in the morning all of your images will look blurry and you will be no further ahead.

Dave

[chauncey]

Was merely suggesting that when one says blurry, what is it compared to.

[William W]

Where did a "Sandbag" come into the equation Richard (or have I missed something)? . . .

Me.

I understand Richard's point of view (and Manfred's lead shot idea): not debating either and I agree both are great ideas, instead of using “sandbags”.

Probably useful to mention that I have never had any Sandbag of mine leak – probably more useful to mention mine are very heavy duty "Theatre" Sandbags, example of two of my small sandbags are here:





That’s a 5D series with B.Grip and a 100/2.8 Macro. Two of those small sandbags sandwich a 300/2.8 and 70~200/2.8 and steady those lenses quite solidly.

WW

[terrib]

I have a bag (forgot what's in it) that I use on my car window or to throw on the car if I get out. But I never thought of having another to put on top of the lens. thanks!

[Mike Buckley]

Speaking of bags, mine have plant fertilizer in them, which in the context of the concerns about messing up camera equipment is essentially the same as using sand. I bought the fertilizer because it gave me the most amount of weight for the least amount of money. I never opened the bags constructed of very heavy-weight plastic the fertilizer was supplied in. I placed each bag of fertilizer inside a zipped plastic bag typically used in a kitchen. I then placed all of that in each photography bag. There is virtually no chance whatsoever that the fertilizer will get beyond those three layers of confinement. That explains why, indeed, none of the fertilizer has ever leaked.

[John 2]

Speaking of bags, mine have plant fertilizer in them, ...............

Clearly your camera sits on fertile ground Mike. I've always wondered.

My bag is similar to that in the link included in post 31. I can use it flat on top of a wall say or hooked on the top of a field gate/ car door etc. A nice touch is that it has a wrist cord. Nothing frightens the wildlife more than trying to retrieve it after it has fallen out of the hide.

[Shadowman]

Terri,

Your situation is one that gives me pause about buying third party lens and I have given some consideration to purchasing one; I've tried both Sigma and Tamron supertele's and was impressed with the performance. Thing is, this could happen with my systems gear as well. Wonder if you got a five year warranty with your lens, it's a small bit of comfort when purchasing an expensive lens?

[terrib]

Terri,

Your situation is one that gives me pause about buying third party lens and I have given some consideration to purchasing one; I've tried both Sigma and Tamron supertele's and was impressed with the performance. Thing is, this could happen with my systems gear as well. Wonder if you got a five year warranty with your lens, it's a small bit of comfort when purchasing an expensive lens?

Every other lens I own is a Canon but the Tamron 150-600 is affordable for that focal length. This second generation lens is performing quite well. No problems with the lens. It's the teleconverter which I am exchanging. If the second one doesn't work, then it'll get returned for a refund. I'll still be happy with the lens. I believe the warranty is 6 years.