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Thread: monopods

  1. #1

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    monopods

    I just came back from a trip to Peru and disappointed to find many slightly out of focus images (handheld) in markets and indoors. A lot of places ban tripods (Macchu Picchu among them). I took a look at monopods on several sites and they vary in price from under $50.00 to $400.00 +. Is it necessary to get an expensive one and what is the difference between them? Some of them look very spindly at the bottom and not very stable. I'm also concerned about weight. Any help would be welcome.

  2. #2

    Re: monopods

    Hi Angela:

    Where the images out of focus (as you mention) or showing camera shake? A support will tend to resolve the latter issue, but I am not sure about the former...

    I have had a couple of monopods and the choice I have made depends on exactly how I intend to use them. For example I have been hiking and wanted a hiking pole and the ability to use it as a monopod. Usually they combine light weight with the robustness that one would expect when a pole is used for human, rather than camera support. The down side of such a solution is that often the monopod heads are fixed, although one can get attachments to provide a ball mount for a camera: you just have to be prepared to carry the adaptor with you.

    As is always the case a lot depends on how much you are prepared to invest in them. Still the following article I just found may be of some value:
    http://www.better-digital-photo-tips...d-reviews.html

    cheers: Trevor

  3. #3
    rpcrowe's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    The way to tell if fuzziness is due to focus error or camera shake is that:

    If there are some areas within the image that are sharp and others that are fuzzy - the problem is most likely poor focus or perhaps a moving subject if the entire image except the subject is sharp..

    If the entire image is fuzzy, a slow shutter speed is usually the problem because that slow shutter speed will not prevent/minimize camera shake. Proper technique can often offset this problem a bit. A higher shutter speed or Image Stabilization (IS) will compensate also for camera shake to a degree.

    However, for some of us, a monopod is a great help.

    There are several facets of a monopod which are very important to me... I will try to list these in order of importance...

    1. General sturdiness. The sturdiness you need in a monopod depends on what the package you will be supporting. Naturally, the heavier and larger the package, the more sturdiness in required. I actually have a pair of monopods - one is a heavy duty model on which my maximum load is a Canon 5D II and a 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 IS II lens. The second is a much lighter model which I use for my Canon SX-50 HS. The more sturdy model is a Calumet and cost about $100 USD it is a carbon fiber model. The lighter model is a Manfrotto and cost about $20 USD. Both do the job they were intended for. The Manfrotto couldn't support my 5DII and the Calumet would be gross overkill for my SX50-HS.

    2. Weight: I am willing to carry the larger and heavier monopod when I am using my 7D outfit. This monopod weighs close to 2 pounds. The lighter weight pod weighs well under one pound.

    3. Size: There are two considerations regarding size. The maximum open size should be long enough to support your camera/lens at a comfortable height for you. This would depend on your height. The retracted/closed size is another important feature - especially if you are flying on commercial flights. Many/most airlines will not allow you to carry a monopod as cabin baggage; stating that it is a weapon-like instrument. Thus you need to get a pod which will close down to fit in your checked on baggage.

    4. Number of sections: The fewer sections, the more sturdy the pod. However, if you have a pod that is three pieces, it might not fold down to a size you can fit in your bag. My sturdy monopod is 4 sections while my lightweight pod is five sections.

    5. Another choice is flip or twist locks to extend or retract the leg of the pod. Flip locks are easier and quicker but, I have had some problems with these and I prefer twist lock. My sturdy pod has twist locks while my cheaper and smaller pod has flip locks.

    A final choice is whether or not to use a head on your monopod or just attach the camera directly to the pod. I like a tilt head which is fairly light weight but which allows me to point the camera up or down with the shaft perpendicular to the ground. My lightweight monopod has a really lightweight ball head. I don't remember where or when I got this head (I "think" it came with a Culliman set about 30-years ago) but, while it is O.K for the bridge camera, it would never work for a full size DSLR like the 5DII. However, I had it and thus did not need to purchase a swivel head for the lightweight tripod. It only weighs a couple of ounces also

    Why did I buy a monopod for the really lightweight SX50-HS bridge camera. Well, the small maximum apertures often require a pretty slow shutter speed and the little camera is really not great at higher ISO values. Here is a shot done at 1/20 second with the SX50-HS with a 118.2 mm focal length (659.9 equivalent) at ISO 400 (which is about as high as I will normally go with the SX50-HS). Even with that camera's great Image Stabilization, 1/20 second shutter speed at that long focal length would be stretching it to its limits.

    monopods

    IMO, the absolute best values in a monopod were the Manfrotto 680B and 681B which are discontinued but, which ran about $50 USD. It wasn't the lightest pod nor did it close down short enough but, it was sturdy and low priced.

    BTW: a monopod can really help some folks pan and also shoot panos...
    Last edited by rpcrowe; 27th May 2016 at 05:13 PM.

  4. #4

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    Re: monopods

    I no longer see a valid reason for using a monopod. That's because modern cameras generate the required shutter speed without the need for a monopod. Even when the ISO value has to be raised to make that happen, a properly exposed image will display very little or no noise. That's true even when using a polarizer, which is on my camera almost all of the time when shooting outdoors.

  5. #5
    Moderator Manfred M's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    You might want to re-visit your assumption about tripods versus monopods. There are many places that do not permit either (try telling the security person that he is wrong when you argue that you are not using a tripod). The issue is that a lot of places are concerned about (a) potential damage that could caused by the tripod / monopod and (b) the risk of tripping / hitting someone. I've even been to places where they wouldn't let me take my walking stick, for very much the same reason.

    As others have suggested, a monopod will not help with out of focus but they can help with camera shake.

  6. #6
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    Re: monopods

    Angela,

    I agree with Richard: step 1, if you haven't done it already, would be to confirm that camera shake is the culprit.

    You can find a wealth of information by scanning earlier threads about this. Go to the search box at the top right, pick advanced search, enter monopod, and select title only from the drop-down box. You will find extensive discussions of both monopods and heads for them (which many people don't use).

    Unlike Mike, I find a monopod useful for some kinds of photography. Increasing ISO is not in my opinion a substitute, as even if one avoids noise, it reduces dynamic range and color depth.

    I won't try to re-create the earlier discussions, but I think there is absolutely no reason to spend more than $100 or so for a monopod. That's enough to get you a good carbon-fiber monopod, which is lighter than the alternatives. Mine is an Oben from B&H. Things like the number of sections and folded and extended length are a matter of taste.

    Dan

  7. #7

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    Re: monopods

    I think a monopod is essential when hand holding a heavy lens - just to take the weight between shots

    I also use mine for shooting over walls and hedges, not very steady, but it has got me shots I otherwise would never get.

  8. #8
    Black Pearl's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    Would you care to post a few pictures along with the settings you used to shoot them; mode (manual program etc) shutter speed, aperture, iso and focus method so we can form an informed opinion as to why they may have failed to return the results you expected.

  9. #9
    rpcrowe's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    Thanks Loosecannon...

    I forgot one really important point of using a monopod with a heavy camera/lens combination. You can rest the package on the monopod and take the load off your arms and back. I also carry my camera and lens, mounted on the monopod, over my shoulder when moving from one place to another. Makes shifting positions easier...

    My 5D II and my 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II weigh about 5.39 pounds (about 2.45 kilograms) which can get quite heavy carrying and shooting for a day of walk around photography. BTW: the 5D II and 70-200mm f/2.8L IS lens package weighs just slightly less...

  10. #10

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    Re: monopods

    Quote Originally Posted by nitrus View Post
    I just came back from a trip to Peru and disappointed to find many slightly out of focus images (handheld) in markets and indoors. A lot of places ban tripods (Macchu Picchu among them). I took a look at monopods on several sites and they vary in price from under $50.00 to $400.00 +. Is it necessary to get an expensive one and what is the difference between them? Some of them look very spindly at the bottom and not very stable. I'm also concerned about weight. Any help would be welcome.
    I use a Slik U8000 tripod. I also use it as a monopod. I simply slide up 2 of the legs. I often get good results.

  11. #11
    William W's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    Quote Originally Posted by nitrus View Post
    . . .Any help would be welcome.
    Before you spend any money confirm that a monopod will assist in addressing the issues: as already requested and implied, please post a few images exhibiting the problems and with those images the full EXIF details.

    WW

  12. #12
    James G's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    I would echo all the advice already given. I tend however towards Mike Buckley's view for 'general' photography. That said I am not compromised physically in terms of normal strength or posture! I suspect that in a few years time I might think a bit differently

    I do however use a monopod for my macro photography. I find that being able to stabilise my camera in one plane at least, significantly improves my capture rate.

  13. #13
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    Re: monopods

    You'll still need to use vibration reduction/image stabilization with a monopod as you can still have camera shake from a swaying motion while taking the photograph. If you cannot master handholding, there are also monopods with a base. I'm not advocating this style just linking for an example.

    http://www.adorama.com/IAMA90.html?u...All%20Products

  14. #14
    DanK's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    I use a monopod primarily for two purposes: macro and telephoto work. I don't do much in the way of dark interiors where flash isn't allowed, but I would probably use it there also to buy a few stops and lessen the need for high ISO

  15. #15

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    Re: monopods

    Thanks all for your detailed and interesting advice. I'm grateful you would take the time and trouble to craft these responses. I will post pictures when I find out how to do that. I liked JBW's idea of using a tripod as a monopod, however mine has a very heavy head a and a small foot which doesn't matter with 3 legs but is unbalanced using only one.

  16. #16
    Moderator Manfred M's Avatar
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    Re: monopods

    Quote Originally Posted by nitrus View Post
    I liked JBW's idea of using a tripod as a monopod, however mine has a very heavy head a and a small foot which doesn't matter with 3 legs but is unbalanced using only one.
    Brian has a significantly different shooting requirement than you do that is very unique, so while he does use his tripod both ways, he shoots from the comfort of his garden, while sitting on a stool. He is not carrying it off to far away, often crowded places.

    I own a monopod as well as a tripod (Benro) that lets you remove one of the three legs to use it as a monopod; that something I have never done. If I have a tripod on hand, I will use it as a tripod as it provides a far more stable platform than a monopod ever will. With Brian's solution, you have the weight penalty of the tripod without the advantages of the monopod and it certainly will be a problem in the "no tripods allowed" places.

  17. #17

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    Re: monopods

    What's the difference between a tripod collapsed and a monopod? Weight and volume, but stability looks the same for me.
    I've no experience with it.

    George

  18. #18

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    Re: monopods

    I would be concerned that any tourist location that doesn't allow tripods would also not allow a monopod that has three feet, such as the one provided by John.

  19. #19

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    Re: monopods

    I own a monopod costing me $130 aus. dollars. I can shoot something at 80mm on f4 200 iso and get away with it. Easy to carry as well.
    Cheers Ole

  20. #20

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    Re: monopods

    I too own a monopod, a Manfrotto 679B it cost AU$75, I added a Beike ball-head AU$15 from China; the combination extends to 185cm. It serves multiple purposes. It makes macro shots much easier. It helps me hold my one heavy lens much steadier while I fiddle with the many dials and buttons on the camera; especially in rough terrain. It is not light, nor did I want it to be; it doubles as a hiking stick - very handy in some of the places I go walkabout. It is easy to detach from the camera and was more than a match for a pack of Ferrel dogs that wanted a piece of me.

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