Flash tips for beginner

[MrGladstone]

Hello! I have been asked by a very good friend to shoot her wedding tomorrow. I am a reasonably experienced and confident photographer but I have never really delved into flash photography. I have an sb700 to use if necessary but could really do with some basic tips/suggestions to help me get some natural looking shots. Please bear in mind that when it comes to flash I do not understand jargon!! Suffice to say, if I can up my iso and shoot natural light, then I will! Many thanks for your help. Tom

[HaseebM]

I have a 600 ex rt which I find to be quite adequate in a small hall with a small gathering. I tend to use both direct and indirect flash and sometimes use a homemade board cover with thin cloth to act as a diffuser. The 600 ex rt is pretty powerful so I am not sure how it would compare with SB700, but these are some of my thoughts.

[Manfred M]

Tom - trying something relatively new to you and something you find that you are not comfortable with at such short notice is not going to be a very good idea.

Direct flash using on camera flash does not give flattering results. Light modifiers improve this situation greatly, but given your limited time to aquire / learn; not a good plan. Stick with what you know and start looking a taking a very limited number non-critical shots with fairly standard techniques like bounce lighting would be as I would suggest that you go.

[DanK]

You don't have time to learn anything complicated. I agree with Manfred: avoid direct flash when you can. The simplest thing that usually works is to bounce the flash off the ceiling or a neutrally colored wall and use a bounce card (like the Demb Flip-It) to direct a little bit of direct light forward, to avoid shadows under the eyebrows and to give a little catchlight in the eyes. There are other light modifiers that will do roughly the same thing: bounce most of the light, but have a little direct light. This will suffice much of the time. I do events only casually, but the wedding photographer at my son's wedding did much the same thing for many of his shots.

Re this:

Suffice to say, if I can up my iso and shoot natural light, then I will!

That's not always a good idea. If the background is fairly well lit but there is not much light on faces, natural light shots may not be so good, although you can lighten the faces in postprocessing with some work. I would try to get doubles: if you have doubts, take one with natural light and another similar one with flash.

Good luck.

[MrGladstone]

Thanks for all your responses so far! Very useful! With regards to using a bounce card, my sb700 has one installed as standard. Do any users have experience with this? Is the card large enough to work properly? And does anyone have experience with the sb700's bundled diffuser? Would this be a good option to soften the light? It has also been suggested that I deviate from aperture priority and try my camera in Program mode. Any thoughts on this? Sorry for all the questions! Tom

[PhotomanJohn]

Tom,

The bounce card that is in the SB700 will work fine to do what Dan is suggesting. The flash head is generally tipped slightly forward from vertical when the card is used. Remember this only works when you have a neutral (white) ceiling to bounce the light.

The diffuser cap that came with the flash has a similar effect. Since it sticks out from the flash, the light is directed in up, down and to the sides as well as straight out so some of the light will bounce off the ceiling and walls if they are close to help fill in the light on the subject. I see some folks use then when there is nothing that the light can bounce off of, like outdoors, thinking that they help "soften" the light on the subject. This doesn't work because it doesn't make the light source bigger so it is still a "hard" source. The only real affect is to greatly reduce the light output of the flash.

If you end up using the flash directly on the subject (which is very often done), it would be helpful if you had a bracket to raise the flash further above the axis of the lens to prevent "red eye" when the subjects are looking directly at the camera.

I don't see any advantage going to the "P" mode. I would stick to "A" with the flash in iTTL (auto). For fill flash outdoors (a necessity) use the flash directly at the subjects. Make sure the metering mode is set to matrix (spot metering turns off the flash fill function on Nikon cameras) and adjust the flash compensation (not the main exposure compensation which varies both the flash and ambient exposure on Nikons) to adjust the flash level until it looks natural on the subjects.

I guess I will stop here before I confuse you further. I would suggest you practice some of these things before the wedding which should really help. It is difficult to be in the learning mode during the pressure of the actual wedding.

John

[Geoff F]

When I first got one of the modern 'thinking flashes' Tom, I couldn't get any success with it because I was working in the same manner as the old fixed output flashes.

Eventually, I started setting the camera with manual settings to suit the scene then allowing the flash unit to set its own level (in ETTL mode). That now works for me when everything else fails. But a little bit of flash output compensation will often be needed. Just the same as using exposure compensation.

Using any of the auto camera settings gives wide open aperture and slow shutter speed. Shutter Priority sets a wide open aperture. Aperture Priority can work but often gives too slow a shutter speed. Hence my use of manual camera settings and variable flash output.

Bounce flash has been fraught with problems for me. Often works for static subjects where you can work out the correct angle and have several goes at the same scene. But for those quick one off shots I find that too often my main lighting is falling short or, even worse, behind the subject.

Putting your flash unit off the camera or better still using two flash units at different angles is fine when you can get it working correctly; and preferably with a skilled helper to position the flash.

In reality, I'm afraid that shooting with the simple top mounted flash unit is often the easiest option. In spite of all the potential problems, it does allow you to just concentrate on composure etc without worrying about getting the flash position correct as well.

[loosecanon]

The reason why flash is often used in weddings is to reduce contrast by providing some fill in light and so even out lighting. The essential point is that you only need a little diffused lighting for the wedding photographs, not flash as the main source - unless where you are photographing really is very dark.

[inkista]

Just me, but +1 on the earlier suggestion that if you're not comfortable with flash, using it in a high-pressure event-type situation may not be the best call, but sometimes there's no other way to get the shot, so practice a lot ahead of time.

Secondly, I'm persnickety. I don't call that a built-in bounce card. It's a catchlight panel. It's a little too small to do much diffusing. Bouncing is generally going to be your best bet. And when you bounce, there are a few things to keep in mind: you can choose the direction of the light by swiveling the head--unthinkingly pointing it straight ahead on-axis and up 45 degrees generally doesn't work that well. The SB-700 can swivel 360 degrees, so no limitations there. Aim the flash at the spot where you want the light to come from. You may also want to consider flagging off the flash with a BFT (i.e., $1 sheet of craft foam attached with a rubber band).

Also keep in mind two things: light falls off over distance, so the farther away your bounce surface is, the smaller the amount of light you're going to get. If you're shooting in low light, you may want to keep your camera close to the settings you'd use without the flash (high ISO in particular). ISO 100 and f/8 is a lot to ask of any bounced flash. You're still just powered by AAs.

I don't see any advantage going to the "P" mode. ...

If you are shooting in low light, and you don't have flash-think wired into your head, P mode is actually a good choice, because the A/Av and S/Tv modes on the camera default to a fill-flash flash/ambient balance. That is, it's expected that your exposure settings will be very close to what ambient (all the light that isn't the flash) would need, and that you're just flicking out a low level of flash to "fill in" shadows. Works great in the daytime and good lighting conditions.

But in low light, the problem is that with the A mode, what ambient can require might be a very slow shutter speed, even if iso 1600 and f/2. And it may be too slow to handhold or for the action. And you've got power to burn on the flash at those settings. P takes the ambient light level into account, and makes the flash work more like a P&S flash (which is what most flash newbs have experience with off the bat): fill in good light; but flash as main illumination in lower light conditions.

Obviously, you really want to get to the point where you can shoot in M on the camera, and control your flash/ambient balance exactly the way you want it--maybe even take your flashes off-camera at some point--but that's not gonna happen by tomorrow, especially while event shooting, bouncing, and scrambling to get the shots as they arrive. So, P and iTTL, and learning to ride the flash exposure compensation are probably the easiest way to go.

My suggestion: go hit Neil van Neikerk's Tangents website. The BFT and directional light links I put up there are good places to start, as well as the general Flash Photography Techniques section. Van Neikerk is a wedding photographer who uses on-camera bounce flash a lot.

Good luck!

[rpcrowe]

I agree with Kathy...

Using "P" exposure mode on the camera and TTL exposure with the flash will result in "most" of your exposures being quite usable. There are other ways to tweak the exposure between camera and flash but, Programmed on the camera and TTL (or ETTL) on the flash will probably provide the best overall exposure for a person not overly experienced in flash use.

Here are some images which could be problematic but, which were taken care of using my Canon setup with the "P" + TTL combination:

Sasha was fairly close to the camera with daylight coming in from the window behind her.


In this case, the sun was shining into the groomers shop as I shot this image. The important portions of the shot (two dogs and two ladies) were exposed quite well...


In this image, I wanted to show three things: Kim who donates her grooming services to our rescue group, the two of our rescue dogs she has just groomed, and the sign on the wall identifying the establishment. Using Programmed exposure on the camera and TTL on the flash, I handled the exposure quite well for all three.


BTW: I was switching between a video camera and a DSLR when shooting the shots at the groomers and I wanted the most simple setup I could use. My idea of the level of expertise is the results, not the way you obtained those results.

In all cases, I bounced the flash directly up off the ceiling and used a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Pro ( www.dembflashproducts.com ) to modify the light, directing some of it forward to fill shadows and provide catchlights. I love the Flash Diffuser Pro and have two of them, since I often shoot with two cameras, each with a flash. I also have the smaller Joe Demb Photojournalist Flash Diffuser that I use when I am bouncing my 220EX Flash. I will often use a camera flip flash bracket which will give even better lighting combined with bounced flash and a Flash Diffuser Pro. But, I was shooting video with a video light mounted on a cage and did not want to burden myself with extra equipment. The hotshoe mounted flash worked just fine...

The bounce card incorporated in a flash unit is better than nothing but a larger surface (such as even a 3x5" or 4x6" index card taped to your flash) is better. Even better than an index card is this diffuser-reflector that you can fabricate from some foamcore or white cardboard:

http://super.nova.org/DPR/DIY01/

[PhotomanJohn]

If you are shooting in low light, and you don't have flash-think wired into your head, P mode is actually a good choice, because the A/Av and S/Tv modes on the camera default to a fill-flash flash/ambient balance. That is, it's expected that your exposure settings will be very close to what ambient (all the light that isn't the flash) would need, and that you're just flicking out a low level of flash to "fill in" shadows. Works great in the daytime and good lighting conditions.

But in low light, the problem is that with the A mode, what ambient can require might be a very slow shutter speed, even if iso 1600 and f/2. And it may be too slow to handhold or for the action. And you've got power to burn on the flash at those settings. P takes the ambient light level into account, and makes the flash work more like a P&S flash (which is what most flash newbs have experience with off the bat): fill in good light; but flash as main illumination in lower light conditions.

Obviously, you really want to get to the point where you can shoot in M on the camera, and control your flash/ambient balance exactly the way you want it--maybe even take your flashes off-camera at some point--but that's not gonna happen by tomorrow, especially while event shooting, bouncing, and scrambling to get the shots as they arrive. So, P and iTTL, and learning to ride the flash exposure compensation are probably the easiest way to go.

Basically, I agree with everything that Kathy has said except for the part about the flash operation in P versus A modes. I assume you are using a Nikon camera because of the SB700 flash. As I stated above, with Nikon cameras, the setting that decides whether you are in flash fill mode (try to balance with the background) or non-fill mode (expose for the subject and don't worry about the background) is the exposure metering mode. Selecting spot metering takes the camera out the flash fill mode. This is true in either the A or P modes.

So as Kathy said, if the general scene is well enough lit to allow for an adequate shutter speed and aperture (such as outdoors or indoors with a high ISO setting) then flash-fill is a good approach. If the scene is too dark, place the metering mode in spot and then the flash will attempt to expose the subject and ignore the background. The spot metering follows the spot that is selected for focusing.

Hope this all helps.

Late edit: I see Richard was posting while I was posting. Note that he is using a Canon camera, not a Nikon. There are differences in operation between the manufacturers.

John

[tclune]

Bouncing flash is a good technique if the ceiling is white, flat, and not too high and not too low. I would suggest instead getting a Gary Fong Lightsphere for your flash and shooting in TTL mode with a 1/125s or so shutter speed. It won't be the most amazing thing you could do with flash, but it is quite acceptable and easy as falling off a log.

[inkista]

... If the scene is too dark, place the metering mode in spot and then the flash will attempt to expose the subject and ignore the background. The spot metering follows the spot that is selected for focusing.

Hope this all helps.

Actually, (as a Canon user), I've mostly heard of this as switching from TTL BL to TTL. Flash doesn't actually use spot metering. But same result. TTL for when flash is needed as main illumination, and TTL BL for when you mainly want it as fill. TTL decouples the TTL flash metering from the ambient metering. [TTL= through the lens metering. The camera tells the flash to send out a small "preflash" pulse of light of a known brightness, meters it, then adjusts the flash power accordingly based on the meter reading]

On the Canon side of the fence, our terminology is Evaluative (similar to TTL BL; ambient's accounted for), and Average (ambient counts for less).

Just saying that for someone who's completely new to flash, trying to pick it up as fast as possible, using P mode vs. A mode is something they're already familiar with vs. trying to set TTL vs. TTL BL for the flash.

Bouncing flash is a good technique if the ceiling is white, ...

You might be surprised. If the ceiling's a warm color, it can sometimes eliminate the necessity of gelling the flash to match ambient. (Tom, ignore this bit--you don't have time to find gels).

... flat, and not too high and not too low.

And glass and walls can reflect, as well as ceilings. If you're willing to shoot at high ISOs, bounce flash can be useful in a larger venue than you think. Even outside.

And as for getting additional gear--might be a bit too late unless he can find the gear at the local bricks'n'mortar.

[PhotomanJohn]

Kathy - Nikon's terminology is basically the same: i-TTL Balanced fill flash and Standard i-TTL flash when spot metering is selected.

A related note is that in A and P modes the minimum shutter speed when using a flash can be set (e2 Flash Shutter Speed). The camera will never chose a shutter speed slower than the setting. This can be set from 1/60 to 30 seconds. I leave mine set at 1/30s which should be acceptable to control background blur with stabilized lenses.

The manual does not specify this but it appears that, even when left in the balanced fill mode, if it can't properly expose the background at the minimum specified shutter speed, it gives up and automatically switches to the standard mode. I have many photos from receptions where the distant background is dark but the close subjects (who were in the focus/metering spot) are properly exposed. Not positive of this but I has been my experience.

This subject is much like the thread we had on AF functions. It sure would be nice if the manufacturer's would clearly and fully define all the functions.

John

[William W]

. . .There are differences in operation between the manufacturers [i.e. Canon DSLR and Nikon DSLR].

I concur.

This point is very important to note in this particular shooting scenario which is outlined in the OP.

What I do know is that many of the differences between Nikon and Canon occur concerning, but not limited to:

> Functionality of P Mode
> Functionality of Dedicated Flash Operations when camera is in P Mode
> Functionality of Auto ISO when camera is in Manual Mode

However, I am not 100% au fait apropos the minutia and nuances of all the Nikon DSLR Functionalities, so I do not wish to directly comment other than the above which I have written.

Regrarding NIKON GEAR and P Mode Functionality and a using dedicated NIKON Flash, John speaks with an authority to which I would defer, if I were using Nikon gear.

*

To Tom -

I think that you should take all the quality information above and choose either P Mode or A Mode whatever is the simplest for you to use the managing the FLASH - which I suggest that you do use and hopefully have time to practice.

WW

[Acorn]

Frankly, Tom, my first advice if you are shooting a wedding outside in reasonable light is best not to use a flash as it tends to harshen the light and often makes the bride look unflattering. Best use God's light if you can. But for interior shots, if possible use a bounced flash technique with diffuser in "P" mode. I offer this advice based on several years experience of shooting weddings some time ago. Recently I was a guest at a wedding where the couple had employed a young professional at great expense. He turned up with his D4 an assistant and impressive paraphernalia. He used flash for every shot, I simply had my D7000 and no flash. The final outcome was that the couple chose my shots as they looked more natural. Consider me conceited if you wish, but that was a fact.

[William W]

Frankly, Tom, my first advice if you are shooting a wedding outside in reasonable light is best not to use a flash as it tends to harshen the light and often makes the bride look unflattering. Best use God's light if you can.

With all due respect to one’s opinion: how many weddings have you shot?

“God’s” light is usually the harsh light and Wedding Photographers use Flash as Fill is to soften it, even in open shade.

WW

[Acorn]

Hundreds and hundreds, Bill. However, I do agree that harsh shadows can be softened with judicious use of flash. I must have been very, very fortunate with regard to soft light conditions. In such conditions though, flash also has a tendency to flatten an image.

[William W]

. . . I must have been very, very fortunate with regard to soft light conditions. In such conditions though, flash also has a tendency to flatten an image. . .

That's an interesting comment.

My experience would assure a comment which would be exactly the opposite.

In "soft" lighting conditions, for example open shade, Flash Lighting is used specifically to create MODELLNG.

MODELLENG adds depth to the image, i.e. makes it LESS flat.

WW