Camera will not fire when button is pressed!

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Originally Posted by Colin Southern

Manually focusing a modern camera / lens is like buying a new car and then pushing it everywhere; we pay good money for the automation - it works well - may as well use it.

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With the price we are paying for petrol it is worth doing. A bicycle is another option (Kodak Instamatic). :D

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Originally Posted by Colin Southern

Manual focus sucks :D

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This kind of scene was hard to focus with a manual focus camera. The focusing aid (regardless of how that was done; split line, micro-prism, etc) all relied on picking up a point of contrast to work on.

If I did not have a target; like Colin's suggestion (a brightly coloured Post-It note on the wall works well), I would choose a small aperture and range focus using the DoF markings on the lens (that sadly don't exist anymore on most lenses because of the short throw on the focus ring).

Tripod for sure and make sure the camera is level (all of my tripods have a bubble level built into the quick release mechanism.

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Originally Posted by GrumpyDiver

This kind of scene was hard to focus with a manual focus camera. The focusing aid (regardless of how that was done; split line, micro-prism, etc) all relied on picking up a point of contrast to work on.

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Interestingly, so do we. However, if you can shoot at f8 or above with a wide-angle, and if your lens has an accurate distance scale, how much do you really need AF? It's absolutely handy, and I have no idea how old-school action shooters did without, but for a static subject, one can easily get by with range-based focusing.

Full disclosure: my current binge on old cameras may be coloring my opinions on this. :rolleyes:

I don't think there would be any problem focusing on tiles via the viewfinder as there will be joints. Wall's will vary and may not have any apparent detail at all but a magnified live view might show texture.

John
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Originally Posted by RustBeltRaw

Interestingly, so do we. However, if you can shoot at f8 or above with a wide-angle, and if your lens has an accurate distance scale, how much do you really need AF? It's absolutely handy, and I have no idea how old-school action shooters did without, but for a static subject, one can easily get by with range-based focusing.

Full disclosure: my current binge on old cameras may be coloring my opinions on this. :rolleyes:

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The problem with range based focusing on a modern camera is that they turn about 90° between the focus extremes, whereas my older manual focus lenses are more like 270° and even a bit more. This range allowed a reasonable DoF scale that made zone focusing pretty easy to do.

Manual focus with a modern lens is usually a PITA....

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Originally Posted by GrumpyDiver

The problem with range based focusing on a modern camera is that they turn about 90° between the focus extremes, whereas my older manual focus lenses are more like 270° and even a bit more. This range allowed a reasonable DoF scale that made zone focusing pretty easy to do.....

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. . . and note specifically that the OP has a ZOOM lens, therefore the Distance Scale is even less useful than on a Prime Lens.

However, if shooting at the 24mm end of he lens and using F/8, there would be a large Depth of Field when shooting (at typical distances expected) inside rooms of an apartment.

WW

Wow! Never knew my simple request for advice/comments from our distinguished members
can generate such priceless on-going comments from all over the world!

Thank you all! I will always treasure (and copy down your comments into my camera data note-book)
your advices & comments which will most definitely help me improve my photographic skills.