Do you know anything about this vintage camera?

Afterthought:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by William W

It was very common for the Photographer NOT to use an enlarger for printing negatives from a Folder, but to make only Contact Prints. . . but there is no reason not to use an enlarger and to expect nice prints.

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I expect that, if you do run a roll or two through the camera, that you will scan the negatives for a digital print - and not wet print them via an enlarger and developing trays.

WW

Oha......now I really cannot wait.

It seems that a lot will depend on the bellows.....and the rest of the parts that move. Hopefully, if everything moves as the seller has indicated, it will work. I will wait until it arrives then test the bellows and the rest of the parts. If they work, I will order film. I have a friend who has offered to develop a roll if I am able to shoot it.

I will keep you all posted. I have a Canon printer/scanner that I can scan prints in with. It actually does a decent job.

What a great thread!!!!! Thank you, everyone.

PS. If you have prints from a camera like this or other vintage camera and are able to scan them in, please feel free to post them here.

Marie

By absolute co-incidence I read this today:

http://photo.net/beginner-photograph...s-forum/00cL2L

Thought you might be interested in how it was done: then.

And, if you read through that thread you'll understand better why my mention of "Unders and Overs" was most relevant - because with Ortho film, one can develop the negative in a tray - so for the "Unders and Overs" one would snip the negs ,before developing them.

I have no idea if Orthochromatic Film is still available.

WW

Dear Bill,

How interesting! I have really valued all of your input. I am at the stage of my life when, although I work full time, at 58, I am also free to explore and discover.

I will keep all aprized as to when I get my camera. Hoping it works, but at is at the price I paid, I would be okay with just displaying it on my mantel.

Marie

good oh!

If I were to use 120 film agains, and I still have a Russian Twin Lens Reflex intended for my son along with a few rolls of 120 film in the fridge, I would do the developing myself ... it is not hard and I would hope to find a 120 'daylight' developing tank like this on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Film-Develop...1#ht_70wt_1004
Other things around the house you could find would be a couple of one gallon bottles [ one dark onewould be good to keep the developer in]with the clear one for the fixer solution.

You will need a thermometer so that you develop the film at 68 degrees farenheit ... ideally for developer and fixer for the critical worker but not for the rest of us.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ter&_sacat=625
There is some tolerance upwards which reduces the required developing time. You should get this info on the packet of developer or on the web

You need a really dark room to load the film into the tank [ turn the lights out and sit in for a few minutes and you will see the light leaks appear even at nightime ] The emulsion is on the opposite side to the backing paper and prefereably should not be touched .... if you can find an old un-cut film or prepared to waste a new roll practicing loading the spirral it is well worth it as the first time can be a lengthy process ... Though in the dark I can feel better with my eyes open :)

Then with the top of the tank in place you can work in daylight pouring in the developer for the required developing time with a good shake for ten seconds every minute [ I imagine the cork was added so that the tank could be inverted for this purpose without spilling any of the liquid. which is a good a way of agitating the liquid so parts of it do not exhaust themselves against part of the film causing blotches.

At the end of the developing time empty the developer out and add the fixer .... after a couple of minutes you can open the top and look to see if the white backing to the film has dissappeared.... a simple rule is to give at least twice the clearing time for proper fixing.... final stage is to run water through the tank ... here a plastic tube attached to the spool top if it has one, catching the water from the tap and the water will then overflow from the tank after flowing past the film into the sink it is sitting in. A good wash takes thirty minutes of that.

For speed there are tricks such as imersing the film in metholated spirits for a short time and when hung up the water will quickly dry off, I did this when preparing stills for TV news presentations. But better is to just hang the film with clothes pegs in a dust free area. Do not apply heat as my boss did once and the emulsion drooped down the film ... he was trying prepare some passport photos in a hurry.

When dry get them scanned and from then on work in the computer ... you could even copy them with your digital camera as I have done if you can fill the sensor with the negative area and with an even white areas behind the film. Originally I did this with a 5Mp camera but later used a 10Mp. to copy my old quarter plates from the fifties [ 4.25 x 3.5 inch glass plates ]

Copying a slide with the white tissue paper hung behind the slide. Also the tunnel I made when copying my quarter plates .. a distinct danger is reflections of you and camera when the back of the film is towards the camera ... the tunnel avoids that, it was painted matt black inside.

http://i42.tinypic.com/314ynvk.jpg
For the slides done with my Nikon 5700 it WAS capable of filling the sensor with the 36x24mm of the slide though not possible with some cameras. With the FZ50 I didn't need the full zoom just a two dioptre CU lens at about half way through the zoom range. I tend to add my 2D CU lens every time I shoot close/tight without checking to see if it is needed.

Checking EBAY for film stock it seems mainly to be fast stuff at 400 ISO/ASA so a yellow filter could help to guard against over exposure ... though unlike digital, B&W film can be over-exposed with reasonable safety which is how processing labs coped with films shot with box brownie cameras ... whereas under exposing is marginally acceptable with digital it is a big NO NO with B&W film .. so if in doubt err to over exposure.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...=625&_from=R40

If you do use out dated stock depending on how it was stored you need to over-expose it to compensate ... trial and error :)

I hope others will mention the details I forgot ... last film I developed was around the start of this century.

One thing when starting is that if you expose the last one of two frames on the roll [ winding through the roll until you get to nos. 6/11/or 14 depending on what the camera shoots [ 6x9, 6x6, or 6x4.5 and then in the dark cut off the tail of the film and just process that .... but I would warn you that winding the rest of the film back onto the spool can be tricky in the dark just by feel, it is very springy like a landline phone cable ... Did that once too :)

The camera's window should be kept covered except when winding on between numbers. Hopefully the camera has a slider to do that.

Dear sir,

Thank you so much for your detailed explanation regarding developing. I am printing the entries in this thread so i can refer to them later.

Thanks again to taking the time to teach. I am looking forward to trying some of the techniques you described.

Marie