I thought about getting an old hand held light meter until I saw the price and that old ones are unreliable. It is possible to buy a refurbished Weston Euromaster II for £79 but it isn't a spot meter.
I know how to use a hand held light meter to measure reflected light very close to a model, because I've done all that, but I've never used one to measure incident light or know what to do with the reading.
In the Weston handbook it states that you should fit the invercone and point the meter at the light source next to the model the sun it is going to be bright isn't it.
I found the tutorial about metering very interesting:but think 'is' could be replaced by 'are' and a little bit said about how to meter incident light, I just realised why I've got a white card or at least found a use for it, and how difficult to meter in low light especially when the main light is directly ahead.Partial and spot metering give the photographer far more control over the exposure than any of the other settings, but this also means that these is more difficult to use
Normally I just point the camera at the brightest thing I can see in frame and try to set that 1 .667 ev overexposed on spot, but it isn't easy finding the brightest spot and I usually find I'm overexposed after a standard S curve is applied.
This is terribly bad for the first darkest image in a HDR because blown bits turn pink.