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Thread: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

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    arith's Avatar
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    100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    I didn't expect this, I couldn't see the reading because of the brightness and so didn't know it was only 1/100, I thought it might be 1/1000.

    Question, is this motion blur since the focal length is 176mm on a 1.6 crop and if it is how do I cure it?

    100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

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    Saorsa's Avatar
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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    It looks like camera shake or a shot before IS or focus was completed. The shutter speed is low for the focal length.

    What mode were you shooting in? If the flash was up the shutter speed may have been forced to the cameras sync speed.

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    arith's Avatar
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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    It was in manual and I quickly got the needles on +2, then shot not thinking I would need a tripod Brian. Is there anything I can do to make the horses look a little sharper?

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    You can try adding a bit of contrast, it'll help somewhat, the horses are so much in the forefront that you can only alter OOF areas slightly.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Quote Originally Posted by arith View Post
    I didn't expect this, I couldn't see the reading because of the brightness and so didn't know it was only 1/100, I thought it might be 1/1000.

    Question, is this motion blur since the focal length is 176mm on a 1.6 crop and if it is how do I cure it?

    100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???
    I don't think this is an image just out of camera. Exif says it's been edited by Adobe. Are you aware that the metering is spot?

    George

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Here is a quick edit posted mainly for practice by me. I applied most of the adjustment to the horse's heads only. Did contrast, clarity adjustment in RAW, overall unsharp mask (500, 0.3), selective sharpening (125, 2.0), tonal curve contrast to heads only. I went a bit overboard but you can at least see a difference.

    100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    I would suggest that John's "practice" exhibited the best that you're gonna get.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Quote Originally Posted by chauncey View Post
    I would suggest that John's "practice" exhibited the best that you're gonna get.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    The image is about 3 meters wide, so there are about 3 x 176 / 22 = 24 meters of hot tarmac between the camera and the horses. If only you could get closer next time...

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Photoshop's "shake reduction" filter helps a bit too.


    100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    It looks like you've gotten some good post processing advice from folks who know more about it than I do.

    You don't always need a tripod but any time I use a long lens I keep my monopod handy.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    You are right George, I have tried my best but a pre programmed Topaz plugin made them a tiny bit sharper. I think John is an expert and will be following his advice. I almost always meter by spot by the way, this must be an averaging place but I can only think it will leave the subject darker, right in this case I think in hindsight.
    Last edited by arith; 26th July 2015 at 05:26 PM.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Quote Originally Posted by arith View Post
    You are right George, I have tried my best but a pre programmed Topaz plugin made them a tiny bit sharper. I think John is an expert and will be following his advice. I almost always meter by spot by the way, this must be an averaging place but I can only think it will leave the subject darker, right in this case I think in hindsight.
    Thanks for the compliment.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    IMO, you can be best assured of a good exposure combined with a shutter speed when shooting on programmed or "P" exposure control. This would be especially true when " I couldn't see the reading because of the brightness and so didn't know it was only 1/100"...

    Were you shooting using the LCD as your viewfinder. I find that to be an almost worthless way of viewing a subject in the bright sun, especially with the sun behind me flaring into the LCD. I have one camera, an underwater Fuji XP-60 which has no eye level viewfinder. I really dislike shooting using the LCD as my only viewer.

    Manual exposure vs. Semi automatic exposure: Programmed exposure control was introduced to eliminate some problems with aperture and/or shutter speed priority exposure control. It will, in the camera's opinion (which is usually - but not always correct) split the hairs between f/stop and shutter speed in making an exposure.

    With my Canon DSLR cameras, I can select any combination of shutter speed and f/stop that I want when using programmed. I can run the gamut of shutter speeds and equivalent f/stops by just rotating the dial and watching the f/stop and shutter speed in the viewfinder. If I want a lighter or darker exposure, I can easily dial in + or - exposure control...

    Of course, using a TTL viewfinder with shutter speed and f/stop visible really helps. I virtually never use the LCD. Besides, making it difficult to view; using an LCD as a viewfinder makes it difficult (for me) to hold the camera/lens steady. I can get a better steady hold with the camera pressed against my face rather than being held out a distance from my eyes.

    Using my Canon 7D (1.6x crop) camera and my 70-200mm f/4L IS lens; I can easily get sharp images at 176mm shooting at 1/100 second, as long as my IS is turned on...

    Image differences between focus error, subject movement and camera movement:

    1. Focus error: usually some portions of the image will be in sharp focus and other portions blurry. When your subject is in sharp focus with the background blurry, we tend to call it selective focus. When, say, the BG is in focus and your subject is OOF, we call it focus error...

    2. Subject movement: most of the frame will be sharp except for your subject or portions of your subject. Most often we want our subject sharp except for unique situations like shooting propeller driven aircraft when we want the prop to be blurred...

    3. Camera movement: usually with camera movement, nothing in the frame is sharp...

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Hi Richard, thankyou for your reply which is based on considerably greater experience than I have and looking at your images great skill and empathy with your subject.

    You and others make CoC a great site for me and others to learn, of course I'm never going to get a perfect photograph, it is because it is hard that makes it worthwhile.

    I tried to use the viewfinder but was blinded by a sun block cream leaking with sweat in the 37 degree heat into my eyes, I corrected by not using sun block the next day but the images looked sharp in the tiny camera display so I didn't do them again, your seeing the best of a lot.

    There is a lot to do wrong in photography, it is what makes it worthwhile, as an amateur my images are greatly improved by CoC which is it's members.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    I have had considerably skin cancer on my face so a sun block treatment is really necessary. I previously had trouble with sunblock cream being carried into my eyes along with perspiration. This burned and caused difficulty with seeing. This happened to me most frequently when I was out fishing. I have switched from a sunblock cream to a sunblock spray (Bullfrog brand). This seems to have helped my burning eyes.

    I combine sunblock with a broad brimmed hat for sun control. When I am out fishing, I really protect myself from the sun. I wear a long sleeved sunblock shirt. sunblock gloves, neck gaiter and a long brimmed fishing hat with a back flap and a face shield. This getup has allowed me to continue my hobby of fishing...

    However. I don't want to look like this when shooting pictures. The front mask of this hat pulls up to protect my face. It's fine for fishing but, really looks stupid in any other environment...

    100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    I most often wear a wide brimmed Australian Cattleman's Hat when I am shooting. It's quite decent looking but it protects my face from the sun. Even though it is felt, it does a reasonable job keeping my face shaded and my head relatively cool.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-AKUB...3D291524591617

    If I am going out to shoot in venues in which there will be a lot of sun, I will add a neck gaiter and pull that up around my face.

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...er&_sacat=1492

    However, I certainty will not wear the gaiter pulled up if I am in any area where I could be mistaken for a "bad-guy" or a terrorist!

    BTW: I have never any problems seeing everything in my Canon 7D viewfinder but, I do have problems in the bright sun viewing through my Canon SX50-HS viewfinder.

    However, I still stand by my original statement that if you cannot (for some reason) see your exposure in your viewfinder; Programmed exposure will most likely give you the best exposure compromise between shutter speed and f/stop. I like "P" because, I can select my own preference as to ISO and I can also shoot in RAW which I always do when using a camera with RAW capability.

    When using my Canon DSLR style cameras (I have several from the old Canon D60 which is converted to full-time IR to my 7D cameras which are my go-to tools) I adjust the shutter speeds and f/stops. I will also use aperture priority, shutter speed priority as well as manual (at times), since I can see in my viewfinder what my exposure combination is.

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    arith's Avatar
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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    That is really good advice Richard, I stopped using the sunblock with result I'm pretty well burned now, but at least I got a few good pictures. The viewfinder is a bit difficult, I've got an extension to keep my face away from the camera but still I wear glasses and it is difficult to see the exposure speed, I concentrate on using the metering points to frame into thirds, using the centre point or spot to meter the brightest assumed to be but not always the sky set on +2.

    Your advice is noted, if I can't see use P mode. Thankyou

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Quote Originally Posted by arith View Post
    That is really good advice Richard, I stopped using the sunblock with result I'm pretty well burned now, but at least I got a few good pictures. The viewfinder is a bit difficult, I've got an extension to keep my face away from the camera but still I wear glasses and it is difficult to see the exposure speed, I concentrate on using the metering points to frame into thirds, using the centre point or spot to meter the brightest assumed to be but not always the sky set on +2.

    Your advice is noted, if I can't see use P mode. Thankyou
    Everybody uses his own methods. But I don't understand, special in your case, why not in A or S. As long you follow the lightmeter, even with a correction of +2, there is no difference between M,A,S or P. In any of those modes you will choice a preferred aperture or shutterspeed. But in A and S you do that before the shooting, under light conditions you can choice.

    George

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    George...

    If you cannot see your exposure in the viewfinder for one reason on another, as was the case in the original post, you cannot really "follow" the light meter. Using "P" will come close to guarantying a good exposure. I will go so far as claiming that if you combine "P" with AEB - you will be guaranteed a good exposure as long as you are somewhere in the ballpark regarding the ISO. I most often shoot with an ISO of 160 on my Canon 7D when shooting normal subjects in a normally bright day. When shooting either fast moving subjects and/or shooting with a long focal length, I will switch to around 320 or 400 ISO.

    However, if you have chosen M, you will need to see the viewfinder in order to match the exposure needed. If you use either A or S priority, you can possibly need to switch your aperture or shutter speed in light that is too bright or too dim. In either case, it is pretty necessary to be able to see your viewfinder which Steve stated that he could not do when he shot the posted image.

    Unfortunately, most of the images that people have placed on this forum due to either incorrect exposure or due to too slow a shutter speed, have been the result of shooting in the Manual Exposure Mode. There are more problems posted from M than with full-automatic (although I never use and never recommend this mode).

    I will use the manual exposure mode when I am shooting with studio strobes and when I want to maintain a certain exposure through a series of shots regardless of the background as in the case of shooting for a pano composite or shooting a bird in flight. I will also use the Manual exposure mode when using the Auto ISO setting on my 7D, although some of my previous Canon DSLR cameras did not really have an effective auto ISO setting.

    I will use both P and A priority when I want to shoot at a specific shutter speed (such as when shooting fast action) or when I want to use a specific f/stop (as in when I want either a very shallow or a very deep DOF).

    Every exposure mode has its place (except for full-auto which takes all control away from the photographer).

    However, I don't regard matching the camera's exposure meter by changing the f/stop or the shutter speed in the manual mode any more or less professional than using Programmed exposure and adjusting the shutter speed or f/stop as well as the total overall exposure.

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    Re: 100 iso 1/100 f4 ?? on a hot sunny day 37C in Wien???

    Quote Originally Posted by rpcrowe View Post
    George...

    If you cannot see your exposure in the viewfinder for one reason on another, as was the case in the original post, you cannot really "follow" the light meter. Using "P" will come close to guarantying a good exposure. I will go so far as claiming that if you combine "P" with AEB - you will be guaranteed a good exposure as long as you are somewhere in the ballpark regarding the ISO. I most often shoot with an ISO of 160 on my Canon 7D when shooting normal subjects in a normally bright day. When shooting either fast moving subjects and/or shooting with a long focal length, I will switch to around 320 or 400 ISO.

    However, if you have chosen M, you will need to see the viewfinder in order to match the exposure needed. If you use either A or S priority, you can possibly need to switch your aperture or shutter speed in light that is too bright or too dim. In either case, it is pretty necessary to be able to see your viewfinder which Steve stated that he could not do when he shot the posted image.

    Unfortunately, most of the images that people have placed on this forum due to either incorrect exposure or due to too slow a shutter speed, have been the result of shooting in the Manual Exposure Mode. There are more problems posted from M than with full-automatic (although I never use and never recommend this mode).

    I will use the manual exposure mode when I am shooting with studio strobes and when I want to maintain a certain exposure through a series of shots regardless of the background as in the case of shooting for a pano composite or shooting a bird in flight. I will also use the Manual exposure mode when using the Auto ISO setting on my 7D, although some of my previous Canon DSLR cameras did not really have an effective auto ISO setting.

    I will use both P and A priority when I want to shoot at a specific shutter speed (such as when shooting fast action) or when I want to use a specific f/stop (as in when I want either a very shallow or a very deep DOF).

    Every exposure mode has its place (except for full-auto which takes all control away from the photographer).

    However, I don't regard matching the camera's exposure meter by changing the f/stop or the shutter speed in the manual mode any more or less professional than using Programmed exposure and adjusting the shutter speed or f/stop as well as the total overall exposure.
    I don't know his camera, but reading how he is using it, it must have the same possibilities as a standard dsl.

    He is using M and spot metering. So wat is the flow? In M select an aperture, point on a white subject, adjust the shutterspeed, compose and shoot. In A it would be select an aperture, point on a white subject, hold settings, compose and shoot. You miss that part of adjusting the shutterspeed, it takes time and you need read information from the screen/viewfinder. Even if you use P you might want to change to a preferred aperture or shutterspeed. It takes more time and you need more readings from the viewfinder/screen.
    Whaterver mode, it gives the same result.

    George

    George

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