Eyes photography how to eliminate reflections

[Eildosa]

Hello,

I need some good eyes texture, however each time I get reflection, a polarizing filter won't help because it only works well on flat surfaces.

However my search returned this : http://www.photomed.net/polar_eyes.htm
Which seems to be exactly what I need but it's expensive as hell.

From what I understand I need to put a polarizing filter in font of my flash, the flash need to be at a certain angle in relation to the lens.
That is why the polarizing filter on the lens does not need to turn.

However does it means that I have to take my pictures in absolute controled setting (regarding the light) and thus exterior shots are impossibles?

Thanks.

[Shadowman]

Have you tried moving the light source away from your subject?

[Inkanyezi]

Cross polarisation is the type of polarisation that was used in experiments with polarised light for automobile headlights. The idea never really flew, because it needed mandatory polarisation of all vehicles, and it took away a substantial amount of the light emitted by the lamps. Cross polarisation in that case was tilting polarisation forty-five degrees, so that an oncoming vehicle would have its lights cross polarised toward the windscreen or driver's glasses.

Cross polarisation as the one linked is very simple, and it is very easy to accomplish if you do not want to buy that particular contraption, even if you intend to use the same method.

And it is not related to the flatness of the surface, but to its angle regarding light source and camera. If you want to take iris images, cross polarisation may be the way to go. I built a camera for iris photography long ago, as a friend of mine was into "iris diagnostics", which may be regarded as hocus pocus. I used cross polarisation to avoid the light source bounced into the camera. In my contraption I used only one flash, so it is sufficient with one filter for the flash and one for the lens if you choose to use only one flash. I took polarising film used by the local TV studio for the flash and a regular polarising filter for the camera, their polarisation oriented at right angles to each other.

I don't know how expensive hell is, but polarising film is available form many sources, as for example Edmund's: http://www.edmundoptics.com/optics/p...ing-film/3435/

Pricing does have a bearing on quality, and you might not need the best quality of film for the flash. Do a search for polarising film.

[chauncey]

The examples in your link for teeth Eildosa could be easily accomplished in PP.
I assume the glare of close light sources are disturbing...heed John's advice.

[PhotomanJohn]

I assume the glare of close light sources are disturbing...heed John's advice.

Since what you see in the eye is a reflection, moving the light source back will reduce the size of the reflection but not its intensity.

John

[Eildosa]

The examples in your link for teeth Eildosa could be easily accomplished in PP.

what does PP means?

I don't know how expensive hell is, but polarising film is available form many sources, as for example Edmund's: http://www.edmundoptics.com/optics/p...ing-film/3435/

Thanks, one question, different thickness are available, what does it changes?

So I just stick a polarizing film on my flash, find the right rotation for my lens filter and voila, cross polarized shots.

[Inkanyezi]

what does PP means?

Post production, anything done to the image after you took it out of the camera.

Thanks, one question, different thickness are available, what does it changes?

Actually little difference. The thicker varieties are more durable, while the thin film is easier to apply by cutting, fixing with tape etc.

So I just stick a polarizing film on my flash, find the right rotation for my lens filter and voila, cross polarized shots.

Exactly.

There will always be a slight reflection anyway, but it is greatly subdued.