high shutter speed is not working

[mrinmoyvk]

Hi All,

Recently I came across this problem with my D5200 with 50mm 1.8 attached to it.
I was outdoors with ample amount of sunlight. I wanted to shoot wide open (1.8) in aperture priority mode. ISO was set to 100 (minimum possible). This took my shutter speed to 2000+
When I clicked the image was complete black as if lens cap was attached. Initially I could not get the reason as I was not keeping an eye on SS. Then I tried reducing the aperture and somewhere near 2.8, SS reduced to less than 1000 and I could get the proper image.

I even tried in manual mode with ISO-100, A-1.8, SS-less than 1000. Output was completely blown out image.
I also tried pointing directly towards the sun with A-1.8 and ISO-100 on aperture priority mode. SS was 4000 (Max possible value), still the image was complete dark.

I tried increasing the ISO to max values (Hi3) but still the image was dark with lot of noise in it.

What I want to say is whenever there is extreme amount of light and shutter speed goes above 2000, image was always dark irrespective of A and ISO values.

What could be wrong?

If anyone could try this with their Nikon D5200 that could be really helpful.

[Shadowman]

Did you get a flashing question mark and indicator to use ISO 200 or higher on the LCD? Also, did you have the light source somewhere within the peripheral of your shot?

Re-reading your post I see you were pointing, at one time; directly towards your light source. That would explain what happened, the camera was trying to properly expose the image, but the sensor was trying to compensate for the brightness of the light source.

[mrinmoyvk]

Did you get a flashing question mark and indicator to use ISO 200 or higher on the LCD?

No I did not get any warning message regarding the ISO.

Also, did you have the light source somewhere within the peripheral of your shot?

For other shots (other than directly pointing towards sun) light source was not in the frame. I was framing the subject facing towards me with sun somewhat to my left but out of the picture framw.

Re-reading your post I see you were pointing, at one time; directly towards your light source. That would explain what happened, the camera was trying to properly expose the image, but the sensor was trying to compensate for the brightness of the light source.

Do you mean to say, everything is proper? But then why would camera suggest such a high SS which sensor cannot cope up with?
I will try in Manual mode and gradually decrease the SS and check whether I get the image pointing directly towards the sun.

[Shadowman]

No I did not get any warning message regarding the ISO.




For other shots (other than directly pointing towards sun) light source was not in the frame. I was framing the subject facing towards me with sun somewhat to my left but out of the picture framw.




Do you mean to say, everything is proper? But then why would camera suggest such a high SS which sensor cannot cope up with?
I will try in Manual mode and gradually decrease the SS and check whether I get the image pointing directly towards the sun.

You won't see the warning message unless you are looking directly at the LCD. I set my camera to ISO 100, f/1.8 and pointed it at: near the light source (sun) and camera shutter speed chosen was 1/4000 sec. ? was blinking, message read "subject to bright", shot was taken however my camera was set to highlight warning and left side of screen was blinking/right side naturally exposed.

Cameras suggested those settings because it was the limit of the shutter speed range, if the D5200 was capable it would have chosen higher shutter speed.

Is it possible to post image of subject?

[Cantab]

I don't have a Nikon so won't comment except to say that I'd be nervous about pointing the camera directly at the sun because of possible damage to the sensor. I hope your mystery problem gets solved.

[Dave Humphries]

Hi,

You mention a specific lens - does that imply it does not behave like this with another lens?
If so, the lens may be faulty, or perhaps the lens contacts are just dirty, which could affect the metering.

Can you try another lens?

Failing that, I'd suggest a 'factory reset' of the camera, in case it has got "confused", or has some weird menu setting.

You need to isolate the cause and the effect.
Is it that the camera's shutter just doesn't work at all at 1/1000s and above?
Test in Manual mode.

Or is the metering asking it to do daft things? (in a semi-auto mode)

Good luck, Dave

[mikesan]

Hi All,

Recently I came across this problem with my D5200 with 50mm 1.8 attached to it.
I was outdoors with ample amount of sunlight. I wanted to shoot wide open (1.8) in aperture priority mode. ISO was set to 100 (minimum possible). This took my shutter speed to 2000+
When I clicked the image was complete black as if lens cap was attached. .

I am guessing you have not told us the full story. I found the clue in the post by Shadowman:

...shot was taken however my camera was set to highlight warning and left side of screen was blinking/right side naturally exposed.

So, when you say "the image was completely black" I assume you are referring to the image on the LCD showing the overexposed warning. I think if you turn off the overexposure warning (or if you move the image to your computer and open it) you will find a completely (or nearly) white image.

Let me know if my guess is correct.

[mrinmoyvk]

Hi,

You mention a specific lens - does that imply it does not behave like this with another lens?
If so, the lens may be faulty, or perhaps the lens contacts are just dirty, which could affect the metering.

Can you try another lens?

Failing that, I'd suggest a 'factory reset' of the camera, in case it has got "confused", or has some weird menu setting.

You need to isolate the cause and the effect.
Is it that the camera's shutter just doesn't work at all at 1/1000s and above?
Test in Manual mode.

Or is the metering asking it to do daft things? (in a semi-auto mode)

Good luck, Dave

Results are same with any lens.
For different SS above 1000, I will take sample shots and re-check.

I am guessing you have not told us the full story. I found the clue in the post by Shadowman:
So, when you say "the image was completely black" I assume you are referring to the image on the LCD showing the overexposed warning. I think if you turn off the overexposure warning (or if you move the image to your computer and open it) you will find a completely (or nearly) white image.
Let me know if my guess is correct.

Yes, I am referring to images displayed on camera LCD. I deleted it. Let me capture another image and then copy it to laptop and reply.

[dan marchant]

Does this only happen with one particular lens or is it with any lens?

If only one lens then maybe the aperture blade are jammed closed. If it is any lens do you have any (a lot) or negative exposure compensation dialled in?

[TonyW]

You are asking the camera to use a faster shutter speed than it is capable of. One of two things must be happening: either the shutter is not moving at all or the two leaves of the shutter remain closed together as it moves across the sensor. The two leaves cannot be separated by such a fine amount to give the correct shutter speed.

[mikesan]

Dan & Tony

See my post #7 above. I doubt he is getting completely black images. My guess is that he has the Playback screen set to show blown out highlights, which are shown in black. Since the whole frame is blown out it shows up as a black image. If he switched to a different Playback option (I don't know what the choices are in that camera), he would see the blown-out image; mostly white I imagine.

We await a response from Mrinmoy.

[mrinmoyvk]

Sorry for late reply. I checked again today and could see that the image is completely black on both camera LCD and computer screen. When I point directly towards the light source, i get the warning, "Subject is too bright cannot adjust exposure, please use ND filter" the moment I move away from light source, warning changes to "Subject is too dark...."
No matter which ISO I select 100 or Hi.
My aperture is set to 1.8 and shutter to 1/4000
This happens for 3200 and 4000 only with any lens attached.
Anything less than 3200 SS, images are captured properly.

I even tried capturing RAW and then increased the exposure in PP, there is only noise and nothing else in image.

Any help?



Edit: I was finally able to get the image with below EXIF
SS: 1/4000, A: 1.8, ISO: Hi2 (4 levels above 6400)
Exposure compensation: +5

Most important thing: Exposure delay mode (Shutter opens 1 sec after the mirror is locked up, which is used to reduce camera shake)

Does this mean that mirror locking up is causing the issue? But then I should be able to get the image while viewing through LCD. Isn't it?

[Shadowman]

Sorry for late reply. I checked again today and could see that the image is completely black on both camera LCD and computer screen. When I point directly towards the light source, i get the warning, "Subject is too bright cannot adjust exposure, please use ND filter" the moment I move away from light source, warning changes to "Subject is too dark...."
No matter which ISO I select 100 or Hi.
My aperture is set to 1.8 and shutter to 1/4000
This happens for 3200 and 4000 only with any lens attached.
Anything less than 3200 SS, images are captured properly.

I even tried capturing RAW and then increased the exposure in PP, there is only noise and nothing else in image.

Any help?



Edit: I was finally able to get the image with below EXIF
SS: 1/4000, A: 1.8, ISO: Hi2 (4 levels above 6400)
Exposure compensation: +5

Most important thing: Exposure delay mode (Shutter opens 1 sec after the mirror is locked up, which is used to reduce camera shake)

Does this mean that mirror locking up is causing the issue? But then I should be able to get the image while viewing through LCD. Isn't it?

Weren't you going to post an image of the scene you were trying to capture?

[Manfred M]

For shutter speeds you are shooting at, mirror up mode is meaningless.

Turn it off and see what happens then with your high shutter speeds (i.e. does this fix the problem). Mirror up mode (MUP) is something I use for exposures from around 1/4 sec through perhaps 5 or 10 sec. It is quite possible that the camera software never expected anyone using MUP mode at the speeds you are using. Remember, all you are trying to do is damp out mirror shake in a range where this will impact your image (and of course, the underlying assumption is that you have your camera on a sturdy tripod for this type of shot).

You might or might not be able to see the screen display when shooting in this mode, once the shutter release is pressed. It depends on how the software for your camera works; you certainly will not be able to see it while the exposure is being recorded..

[mrinmoyvk]

Weren't you going to post an image of the scene you were trying to capture?

I will post tonight...
Which I was able to capture at 1/4000 and other at normal shutter speed

For shutter speeds you are shooting at, mirror up mode is meaningless.

Turn it off and see what happens then with your high shutter speeds (i.e. does this fix the problem). Mirror up mode (MUP) is something I use for exposures from around 1/4 sec through perhaps 5 or 10 sec. It is quite possible that the camera software never expected anyone using MUP mode at the speeds you are using. Remember, all you are trying to do is damp out mirror shake in a range where this will impact your image (and of course, the underlying assumption is that you have your camera on a sturdy tripod for this type of shot).

You might or might not be able to see the screen display when shooting in this mode, once the shutter release is pressed. It depends on how the software for your camera works; you certainly will not be able to see it while the exposure is being recorded..

Yes, it is meaningless because 1/4000 is never going to be affected by camera shake.
But if I use mirror up, I get the image and if I use camera in normal mode, I get it dark.
So I was confused that if locking mirror up gives me the image then I should get the image while looking through the LCD also as mirror is locked up at that time also.

[Manfred M]

Yes, it is meaningless because 1/4000 is never going to be affected by camera shake.
But if I use mirror up, I get the image and if I use camera in normal mode, I get it dark.
So I was confused that if locking mirror up gives me the image then I should get the image while looking through the LCD also as mirror is locked up at that time also.

If the high speed shutter works in one mode and not in another, makes me suspect that your camera may be in need of a hard reset. Remember, a camera is really a computer that takes pictures, and sometimes something happens to a computer that requires you to turn it off and turn it on again to get it back to running properly.

I'm not sure if this applies exactly to the D5200, but the this is Nikon's explanation as to how to reboot the D5000, so your camera could be quite similar or there may be something in your user's manual..

https://support.nikonusa.com/app/ans...0-reset-switch