Hi friends, Need some help please..

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

I'm Ramesh(Can call me Hari, which is more easier :-) ). I'm in the UK (London) at present, but will be moving to India for a while, in a few months.

I need some advise regarding selecting a good DSLR. I have fixed my mind on Nikon or Canon in its DX range, but couldn't fix my mind on a particular model yet. With regards to Nikon, what I have in mind is a D5200 / D3200. or In case of Canon, a 60D /7D. I have been trying to compare between these models and find a right choice. As far as i've understood, its not just the body, but the lenses do play an integral part in the shoots. But for the time being i'm trying to focus on the body and fix that nd then have a go at the glasses. Could you guys throw some light into these above said models with the advantages and dis advantages such tat I can get a better idea about the technical benefits/ draw backs in them. I'm interested in shooting out doors and less of portraits and even lesser on wild life and so on. Hope you all will be able to help me out.

Thanks
Hari

[mknittle]

Hi Ramesh, I can't say about Nikon but I just bought a 7D canon and I am really happy with it. it focuses real fast and takes nice sharp images even with the 28-135 kit lens.

[inkista]

... what I have in mind is a D5200 / D3200. or In case of Canon, a 60D /7D.

Just FYI, the Canon 1100D is the closest analog to the D3200, the T4i/650D is the closest analog to the D5200. The Nikon D7000 (and recently announced D7100) are probably the closest analogs to the Canon 60D and 7D. And rumors are that the 70D is due to be announced this spring, and the 7DMkII in the summer/fall. But those are rumors.

The two entry-level tiers (D3x00/D5x00 for Nikon XXXXD and XXXD for Canon) have lower-cost bodies, with fewer features and physical controls. They generally only have one control wheel to set the aperture/shutter speed and a mode button to switch between the two settings. Higher-end cameras have "dual-wheel" control: one wheel for aperture, another for shutter speed. They typically also have more solid builds, more physical controls, more menu commands, and better autofocus systems. Possibly higher burst rates, too.

Which is more appropriate for you depends a lot on your budget, and on what you want to shoot.

... As far as i've understood, its not just the body, but the lenses do play an integral part in the shoots. But for the time being i'm trying to focus on the body and fix that nd then have a go at the glasses.

This is a very common approach, but there's one problem: the body that you buy will lock you into a specific mount system. For the most part, you can't really shoot with one brand of lens on a different brand of camera without losing a lot of function (like autofocus, wide-open metering, aperture control from the camera body, etc.). And each brand has a different selection of lenses. You may not notice the differences for the first two years, as basic lenses are covered by all the mount systems. But when you get into the more exotic $1k glass, that's when you might find an issue. OTOH, 3rd party lens makes, like Sigma, Tamron, or Tokina, might be able to fill the holes in a particular brand's lineup.

But tell us what you want to shoot, and we can tell you if there's going to be a huge difference one way or the other.

Right now, the only caveat I would mention is that the entry-level Nikons you're looking at do not have autofocus motors in their bodies. That means the lens must be designated as AF-S to autofocus. Most of Nikon's current zooms are AF-S, but some of the primes are still AF and will not autofocus on the entry-level bodies. If you move up to a D90/D7000/D300, etc. this issue goes away. This, btw, is only an issue with Nikon cameras. All Canon EF and EF-S lenses will autofocus on all the Canon dSLR bodies, regardless of whether or not they are designated USM.

[Bill Yeung]

Mr. Ramesh:
Let me boldly say nobody can give you an answer yet because:
(1) we, you don't know what you are going to shot. ( walk around shot, family, daily life, scenery, ???)
Just because of this, what you need to do it keep on your own research, ( like what you did) and see which camera you like more.
I told the camera shop guy I am a beginner, want a walk around camera, = then, they gave me Canon 20D and kit len around 10 years ago.
I did my research after knowing the 20D cannot handle figure skating anymore ( I need more burst rate), want to buy a Canon 1D and the camera shop honest guy guide me down to Canon 7D, which not only save my money for better lens, but also gave me years of satisfaction.
What I mean is the answer always start with what you want to shot and the next question is budget.
Read as many reviews on different cameras, models also, but only give your technical differences between them.
You tube got lots of video in testing different models and brands.
hopeful you will get a suitable camera to start your joyful photography journey.

[AB26]

Hi Hari,

Like Kathy tried to explain to you, the Nikon 5200&3200 are consumer cameras in the Nikon range. The Canon 60D&7D are “Advanced Amateur “ cameras. The Nikon D90 (now pretty redundant)and D7000/7100 are more or less in the same range.
With both Canon and Nikon it works more or less like this: the lower the model number the more advanced the camera. For example: the Nikon D4,D3= Canon 1D: top range Professional cameras, Nikon D800e is pretty lonely in that segment – “middle” Pro camera. Canon 5D = Nikon D600, Canon 6D = Nikon D300s: Prosumer cameras, . Nikon D7000/7100 = Canon 7D: top end consumer cameras. Canon 650D (Ti 4) = Nikon D5200middle range consumer and Canon D 600 (Ti3) = Nikon D3200 “bottom range” consumer cameras.

Most of the Canon’s are 18MP sensors where most of the new Nikon’s are 24MP sensors. The disadvantage of higher MP is the fact that you will probably have to upgrade your computer to handle the file sizes. The advantage is that you have bigger files to work with and resolution should be beter.

No matter what you are going to choose you should read every review you can find for the cameras you are considering. Go to a camera shop and handle whatever you consider buying. Do not listen to sales talk and make your own decision. Buy the one you feel most comfortable with. Do not make a hasty decision, take time to determine what will suit you best.

Buying a DSLR is buying into a system of lenses and accessories. The wrong decision might cost you a lot later on. Most DSLR buyers are people whom are either serious about photography or people whom wish to impress others and shoot on Automatic only, never using the full functionality of the DSLR. If you are not going to use the full functionality of a DSLR rather get yourself a bridge camera.

Take your time and think carefully about what you want to do with the camera and what kit you need to get to do whatever you wish to do with a camera.

[Polar01]

Hari: it is really not about which one is better, the difference between Nikon and Canon of similar quality is very small. It really comes down to how it feels in your hands, specs will tell you if it will do what you want however it is only you that can tell if the camera itself feels right. Ad you are in London for sometime, go out and rent one and then the other of a week or so and really use them get to how how it feels in your hands, how easy it is to change settings on the fly, and does it and your mind blend together. After that time, it may surprise you what little thing it was that made you decide one over ther other.

Cheers:

Allan

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the first reply. Its been quite a good feed back about the 7D

[arslanturegun]

You might also consider checking at Pentax K-5 II or IIs

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Kathy Li,
That was really informative and I would say, more than what i could take in. Thank you in advance and further, whats your opinion about the Nikon D5200. From the reviews that i read, it has a higher pixel (24.1) and other features to. But one negative point I noticed is that it make a lot of sound with the lens while shooting. Is there any other things that you could add to it. and the switches and controls. When I considered the pixels it stands above most other models that I had in mind though..

Cheers
Hari

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Bill,

Thanks for your advice and regarding what i plan to shoot, I would say, any thing and every thing in sight.. :-) Plainly speaking, I plan on shooting at occasions such as marriages, family get togethers and so on, and also walk around shoots and scenery. Less of wild life and actions at the moment, becuz I can't afford all these high end tele photo glasses all in one go. My plan for a gear is, A good body with adequate features and pixel strength (a canon or nikon at this point since i haven't gone through the other models and more than that, they rule the market and hence should be at their best) and a portrait lens and one semi tele photo type (don't know exactly whether the terminologies i use are correct). As i mentioned in my first post, i would like to know more about the lenses before i decide but i will post those doubts later. First I feel, I have to finalize on the body.

cheers
Hari

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Mr Burger,
Its really helpful comparison that you have posted here and is really informative. Will have to take a bit of time to digest all that and post more doubts.. :-) I feel, the last part of your reply was the best.. {"Buying a DSLR is buying into a system of lenses and accessories. The wrong decision might cost you a lot later on. Most DSLR buyers are people whom are either serious about photography or people whom wish to impress others and shoot on Automatic only, never using the full functionality of the DSLR. If you are not going to use the full functionality of a DSLR rather get yourself a bridge camera.

Take your time and think carefully about what you want to do with the camera and what kit you need to get to do whatever you wish to do with a camera."}

Thanks n regards
Hari

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Allan,

Thanks for your advice and i'm going through the specs again for sure.

cheers
Hari

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Arslan,

I did have a look at that model as you suggested but my mind is still roaming around the Canon and Nikon bodies and since i haven't thought fully about the lenses, I'm not sure of that part yet. But thanks for your suggestion

Cheers
Hari

[rpcrowe]

Hari...

Don't automatically decide that "entry level" cameras are easier for a new digital photographer to use. They are not! IMO, some are,as in the case of the entry level xxxD Canon cameras, "slightly" more difficult to use because of the single dial setup (as mentioned by Kathy, above) rather than the dual dial system of the 60D or 7D cameras. Many of them also lack some of the capabilities of the more expensive DSLR cameras. OTOH they are light weight and relatively inexpensive and can, when equipped with good class, produce very-good to ecellent imagery.

You mentioned, "i haven't thought fully about the lenses, I'm not sure of that part yet". The lens, after the skill of the photographer, is likely the most important factor in the quality of images produced. However, deciding on a camera body is an important factor in the selection of lenses. Although there are very good lenses produced my third party manufacturers such as Tamron, Tokina and Sigma which are available in most camera mounts; the selection of a body will restrict you to one manufacturer's OEM lenses.

While the various "kit" lenses, will provide quite decent results for your "average" photography (they are all quite good when shot around f/8); where the better, more expensive, lenses shine is when you are pushing the limits of the envelope. This is quite often when you are shooting in low light levels and need faster shutter speeds and faster and more accurate auto focus.

The next thing to consider is the focal length of your lens or lenses. Many photographers are quite happy with extended range zoom lenses, such as an 18-135mm or 18-200mm or so. While these lenses are convenient since they eliminate the need to switch lenses in the field; their maximum aperture is often quite slow while their image quality and auto focus is often not top rate. However, many photographers will live with those limitations because of the convenience of using one lens for virtually all their photographic needs. I am not a great fan of these extended focal length lenses but, would probably consider one instead of a kit lens...

I would personally recommend getting a mid-grade camera body only (such as the Canon 60D or 7D; or Nikon equivalent) and equip that body with a mid range zoom lens of somewhere between 17-18mm to 50-55mm with a constant f/2.8 aperture. Both Canon and Nikon as well as Tamron and Sigma offer lenses in this category.

I like the constant f/2.8 aperture because this can be quite beneficial when shooting in lower light levels. I also like some sort of stabilization in my mid-range zoom lens because it also improves low light level photography. My absolute favorite mid-range zoom lens is the Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens. This is an excellent all-around lens and is quite suited to lower light photography. However, this lens is quite expensive although, IMO, worth evey penny of the cost...

I would then look into a longer lens and, for Canon cameras. my choices would be the EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS; Tamron or Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 VC or IS; or the Canon 70-200mm f/4L IS lenses. I listed these in order of ascending cost and quality. Whichever telephoto zoom that I selected, I would want one with some sort of stabilization built in. I use my 70-200mm f/4L IS lens 4-5x more often than I used my previous model that did not have image stabilization because of the extended ability to hand hold the IS model in lower light levels...

There is an entirely new genre of cameras which many persons really like, these are the 4/3 cameras. I don't know much about these cameras, except that I don't like a camera without an eye level vewfinder and many of these cameras rely on the LCD alone for viewing your image. IMO, this is a BIG PITA and very inefficient. They are, however, small and light in weight.

Finally, for many photographers, a bridge camera will be all that they need. In fact, if you just use your imagery for posting on the Internet, emailing to mother and dad or getting small prints made at a discount store; a bridge camera such as the Canon SX50 might be all you need. They are certainly lightweight, relatively inexpensive and have extensive zoom ranges. OTOH, their apertures are usually quite slow, especially in the longer focal lengths. They are, however, exactly what their name implies, a bridge between the point and shoot camera and the more expensive and heavier but, more capable, DSLR cameras...

Deciding on equipment is a series of choices and compromised. Whatever camera and lens you decide upon; a vital (IMO) addition to any kit is a hotshoe flash capable of bouncing and equipped with a diffuser/reflector. The flash will improve your photography indoors as well as outdoors. Using fill flash outdoors is a simple technique but, one which can elevate your photography from snapshots to quality imagery. I have not been to India but, have shot in many areas in which the light can be harsh and in which some people have darker complexions. Many of the images of people that I see posted that were shot in India could have really benefited from some fill flash!

A tripod is another great addition to any kit. You would be surprised at the quality available from any standard kit lens shot at f/8 or so with the camera on a tripod...

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Hari,

Hi Kathy Li,
That was really informative and I would say, more than what i could take in. Thank you in advance and further, whats your opinion about the Nikon D5200. From the reviews that i read, it has a higher pixel (24.1) and other features to. But one negative point I noticed is that it make a lot of sound with the lens while shooting.

I don't understand how you got this impression, can you tell us (or better still, show us) where you read this?

My immediate response would be "don't buy the noisy lens", since surely - it cannot be the camera body making the noise!
That said, I am not aware of any commonly used lenses with a reputation of making lots of sound.

I would like to know more about the lenses before I decide ~

Very wise

~ but I will post those doubts later. First I feel, I have to finalize on the body.

I would not advise you leave this until after a body decision is reached (far less a purchase made) because you may discover that the lenses you want/can afford, belong to the 'other' body manufacturer.

Welcome to the CiC forums from ...

[inkista]

... whats your opinion about the Nikon D5200.

I'm afraid I don't have one. I shoot with a Canon 50D and a 5DMkII, as well as a Panasonic G3 (micro 4/3 camera), so I'm really only keeping abreast of developments with the Canon prosumer and m4/3 models. An entry-level Nikon pretty much holds no interest for me.

From the reviews that i read, it has a higher pixel (24.1)...

Actually, most cameras in a given sensor generation from a manufacturer share the same sensor (and processor). That Sony 24MP sensor is probably also used in the D3200, and the D7100 (probably with a few tweaks between camera releases, but essentially the same hardware). The main differences between tiers is typically about usability features and not image quality.

Resolution, too, can be a matter of "how much is enough?" A lot of us figure that the rewards of higher resolution are fast diminishing now. How big are you planning to print?

But one negative point I noticed is that it make a lot of sound with the lens while shooting. Is there any other things that you could add to it.

As was stated above, it's probably the lens or a lens fault: either the stabilization unit or the focus motor or both. But personally, I'd look and see who's posting about the issue and whether or not it's someone who's a first-time dSLR owner. Unlike P&S cameras, dSLRs make mechanical noises when you're shooting: the mirrorbox and motors in the lenses pretty much do that. There were also a lot of newbies wondering what the clicking of the orientation sensor in dSLRs was, too.

[FootLoose]

Thanks for that link, Kathy. Very interesting.

[GrahamS]

But one negative point I noticed is that it make a lot of sound with the lens while shooting.

Only in movie mode, only with the 18-55 f3.5-5.6 VR kit lens which has noisy auto focus motor compared to high-end lenses and only with the audio gain on auto. If you want to take movies, buy a video camera!

[DrRamesh Ayurveda]

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your opinions, and following is one of those video links where I heard of, about the sound prob in D5200.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=yl0IAYPMJ_E#!

Further, I'm taking my time to read through the other comments and need some time to chew through all of them.

Thanks to all who have commented and it's making things clearer for me.
Thanks to all and expecting more advises on my further doubts as an amateur in this field.

Cheers
Hari

[AB26]

Only in movie mode, only with the 18-55 f3.5-5.6 VR kit lens which has noisy auto focus motor compared to high-end lenses and only with the audio gain on auto. If you want to take movies, buy a video camera!

Graham probably read the same review I have read. Agreed with Graham, if you want to shoot movies - get yourself a Sony video camera.