Realistic HDR cathedral

This is one of the two cathedrals of Vitoria, a city in the North of Spain. It's is being deeply restorated up to the foundations as you will see in the pictures.

Actually there was no intention to obtain good photographs, just to practise with the Canon 5D + 24mm TS-E II in perspective control, get a good DOF and sharpness, and (almost) completely eliminate noise thanks to multiexposure blending with Zero Noise.

http://www.guillermoluijk.com/worksh...3/catedral.jpg

http://www.guillermoluijk.com/worksh.../catedral2.jpg

http://www.guillermoluijk.com/worksh.../catedral3.jpg

This is a 100% crop of the last shot:

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/6470/foco.jpg

Regards

Well you lost me with the technical stuff, but they are nice photo's. I bet it has a manual mode so ancient people like me can use it though. :)

FINALLY ...

... Some photorealistic HDR to enjoy! WELL DONE!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Colin Southern

FINALLY ...

... Some photorealistic HDR to enjoy! WELL DONE!

---

I thought it was something his camera did automatically; I think it is full frame but I was jealous because I have to do every image in software.:)

why a tse lens?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vandenberg

why a tse lens?

---

I'll let _GUI_ explain why he uses a TSE lens, but I use one to correct converging verticals and gain some extra depth of field when shooting with large apertures. Have also used it for small three shot panoramas.

Peter

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Vandenberg

why a tse lens?

---

TSE lenses allow to shoot perpendicular to the vertical lines that we want to preserve as vertical in the final image, and then shift the lens to obtain a wider field of view in some direction. By doing so you obtain an already corrected shot in the camera where all vertical lines remain vertical without the extra effort and quality loss of software perspective post processing.

In those 3 pictures, only the first 2 ones took advantage of the shifting capabilities of the lens; I was pointing the camera in the horizontal direction and the shift allowed to capture a wider angle of view upwards.

Regards.

The 'tutorial' side of Cambridge in Colour has a couple of great explanations of Tilt-shift lenses.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cneedha

The 'tutorial' side of Cambridge in Colour has a couple of great explanations of Tilt-shift lenses.

---

Agreed, well worth a read.

Nice shots Guillermo, well done.

Glad I don't have to pay for all that work though ;)

Cheers,

Very nice indeed. So far as I can see they are crisp and with minimal distortion and great dynamic range. I like the star effect from the lights with a slow exposure. As for noise, I don't hear a thing.

Chuck

One thing that I see in these pictures is that they are incredibly sharp. I just don't get that even with a tripod and shorter shutter speeds in bright daylight. My usual combination of camera and lens is a Canon XSi and a Sigma 28-300 mm zoom lens. I have other lenses that I use but I still don't get that level of sharpness.

I'm not sure I got pictures that sharp with my M3 and a 50 mm Summicron.

How do I get that. I am giving some serious consideration to going to Canon "L" lenses. Is that the answer?

Thanks.

Bill.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BillTexas

One thing that I see in these pictures is that they are incredibly sharp. I just don't get that even with a tripod and shorter shutter speeds in bright daylight. My usual combination of camera and lens is a Canon XSi and a Sigma 28-300 mm zoom lens. I have other lenses that I use but I still don't get that level of sharpness.

I'm not sure I got pictures that sharp with my M3 and a 50 mm Summicron.

How do I get that. I am giving some serious consideration to going to Canon "L" lenses. Is that the answer?

Thanks.

Bill.

---

I think it probably has something to do with full format; I'm hoping it is anyway since the level of sharpness is incredible.

An L lens requires serious money and may not produce the same results, I think it would probably be better spent on a full format camera.

The post says these pictures were taken with a Canon 5D. The 5D has the Digic 4 processor, the same as my G10. I know that the G10 does not have an "L" lens.

I was in England about ten years ago with my brother and his 4x5. Yes, his pictures are sharp but he had to carry it in a backpack and I carried his tripod. Not exactly something that can be carried conveniently. He wanted to take a picture from the roof of a cathedral in Rye. I got it up there. He has Parkinson's so he needed some help. That's what brothers are for.

There are some software programs that promise extra sharp pictures. Has anyone used them? Do they work?

Guillermo (my name, too, down here in South Texas), how did you do it? Inquiring minds, well, mine, want(s) to know.

Thanks for the reply.

Bill.

Helicon Filter works for selective sharpening. I use an older version of it to remove fixed noise. It works by edging which isn't as good as a sharp picture taken by a lens but also has a tool for sharpening selectively that appears to work by increasing contrast.

I was thinking I didn't really give good advice since an intermediate lens has greater fall off in sharp focus around the edges than an L type, but might perform as well as an L type for a cropped sensor.

So unfortunately a sharp photo as the above might require both a full format camera and an L type lens. I don't know much about TS lenses except they cost a lot. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BillTexas

Guillermo (my name, too, down here in South Texas), how did you do it? Inquiring minds, well, mine, want(s) to know.

---

I used a tripod, remote shutter, mirror lockup and noise elimination through multiexposure, but believe me, the only real secret here is this: Canon 24mm TS-E II. The best 24mm a Canon can wear ever.

The images were resized and sharpened in PS using the standard tools.

Regards.