Cambridge in Colour Forums - General Photography Discussion http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/ en Fri, 24 May 2013 10:23:10 GMT vBulletin 60 http://cdn.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/images/misc/rss.png Cambridge in Colour Forums - General Photography Discussion http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/ reducing grain in poor light http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29342.htm Thu, 23 May 2013 13:43:03 GMT Hi all, took a series of images of smoke leaving an incense stick underlit with a desk lamp. I like the effect but its wild grainy. increasing... Hi all, took a series of images of smoke leaving an incense stick underlit with a desk lamp.
I like the effect but its wild grainy. increasing shutter speed would blur image increasing ISO would increase grain and image is at max aperture.
increasing the ambient light would change the atmosphere of the shot.
any tips or am I just pushing the limits too far? :confused:
post process could I try stacking this image on itself or would that increase grain?

1/30s f5.6 ISO 1600



Thanks for any advice
Kenny ]]> General Photography Discussion KennyF http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29342.htm macro lens http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29337.htm Thu, 23 May 2013 08:57:07 GMT I am planning to buy a macro lens . I have Nikon D600 camera,28-300mm,18-70 mm lens Please suggest me which one to buy. I am planning to buy a macro lens . I have Nikon D600 camera,28-300mm,18-70 mm lens

Please suggest me which one to buy. ]]> General Photography Discussion meenkshy http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29337.htm <![CDATA[Why wouldn't I shoot with the most pixels?]]> http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29313.htm Wed, 22 May 2013 12:28:48 GMT Hi all, I am new so please redirect me if this question has already been addressed. I would just like to know what the benefit of shooting at 9... Hi all, I am new so please redirect me if this question has already been addressed.

I would just like to know what the benefit of shooting at 9 megapixels is, when my camera can shoot at 12?

The tutorials on this site have been very helpful and I have a better understanding of how sensors work, but I couldn't find anything on this topic. Do a quarter of the 'photosites' just turn off, orrr? :confused:

Also, if I'm going to view the pictures on a screen that is only 1920x1080, is there any point in shooting at 4000x3000? Would pictures be smaller and sharper, or just smaller?

If someone could explain what happens when you shoot at a lower than maximum image size, and why it is an option, that would be awesome. :)

Thanks,

Aiden ]]> General Photography Discussion Aidos107 http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29313.htm Your darkroom is now a Google data center http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29239.htm Sun, 19 May 2013 06:23:07 GMT The tentacles tighten...

"We think everyone should be able to make beautiful photos, so today we’re launching a set of initiatives aimed at improving your photos automatically — basically your camera, plus Google’s cloud." ]]> General Photography Discussion plugsnpixels http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29239.htm Travel Photography - My Philosophy http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29229.htm Sat, 18 May 2013 15:45:28 GMT I often read postings like: "What equipment do I need for a trip to abc?" And then there are answers like, "You definitely need xyz equipment and don't need uvw equipment!"

This is a bit of my philosophy regarding travel photography and equipment needed to accomplish that photography.

It seems that there are two general categories of travel pictures; and the type of photos you desire to bring home might have a direct bearing on the type of equipment you would select for your travels. I am not degrading "any" type of photography; simply noting that the equipment one person might need for coverage can greatly differ from the equipment another person might use. Therefore the blanket statements that "You don't need xyz equipment for a trip to abc; might not be useful to a wide spectrum of photographers. However a statement like, "I used uvw equipment on my trip because..." might be helpful!

The first type of photography is "Look where I was!" This is a collection of pictures of you and your travel companions possibly with the place you visited as background. Generally, these are of the snapshot variety and can be all many people desire to come home with. In fact, I have a sister in law who will look with awe on any photo in which any family member is pictured. Even close ups of the faces or body parts with no other reference to place them in the context of the area visited interests her. If there is no one she knows in the image, she has no interest in that image. My daughter is a proponent of this type of photography and now doesn't even bring a camera to record her trips. Her smart phone is all she carries. It seems that for this type of coverage, a smartphone, a P&S, or at most a bridge camera is all one needs.

The second genre of travel photography is to document the area and what is seen in those areas. Quite often a more sophisticated camera setup is needed for that type of photography. Especially if the end product might be a bit more than for just posting on facebook or some other social media site...

The above photography can be split into two general groupings.

Those whose desire it is to record the architecture and landscape of areas visited and for one reason or another, have not much interest in recording the people of the areas visited. I think that these are the photographers who maintain that longer lenses are just not needed for trips to abc or def locations. They are the folks who state, "my 10 to 20mm (or some such) lens never left my camera" or "I carried a longer lens while visiting abc but never needed it!"

The second group wants to bring home a collection of pictures which will capture both the mood and the people of the places visited. I count myself in that group. Although I think that it is necessary to capture the standard brick and mortar images, like The Great Wall on a visit to China, I also want to come home with a collection of images that will capture (to the best of my ability - given time constraints of any trip) the essence of the people living in any area. This type of photography probably requires the greatest variety of equipment. I NEED my longer lens to capture local people without their being aware of the camera. I also want images of good enough quality to make large prints (if I so desire). This means more expensive (and usually heavier) gear. However, I am willing and still (at 73 years old) able to carry that gear. I don't know how long that ability will last but, I have lost 15 pounds and expect to lose an additional five or so pounds before my mid-June trip. That will make up for the approximately 10-pounds of equipment I will generally carry.

Another, differential is just HOW IMPORTANT photography is to you on your trip. I personally would have no great desire to travel without the ability to photograph; while for others, photography is just a minor sideline to any trip. Obviously photography is important to me if I am willing to diet in order to carry my gear:rolleyes: I love to eat and hate to diet:D

I research the areas I plan to visit and have some idea of what types of images I want to bring home... In China, I wanted some older people in Mao suits (I found very few of these) as well as younger student types (these abounded, especially in Shanghai).

In Greece, I want some older women dressed in black contrasted against the white and pastel buildings of the Greek Islands I also want some older men sitting together enjoying the afternoon sun. I definitely want a series of the Greek soldiers in their kilts and tassled shoes guarding the palace. As far as architecture, the Acrpolis is a must but, I also want the blue roofed white buildings of Santorini.

In Istanbul, I want a lot of pictures or merchants in the various markets, men fishing from the Galata bridge and I want a series of contrasts of females in traditional and modern garb. The Hagia Sophia is a must as well as shots of the Istanbul skyinge across the Bosphorus.

Of course, the equpment which one owns or can afford to own is quite often a limiting factor. In my lengthy discourse above, I have not taken equipment cost into consideration.

As I mentioned, there is no right or wrong in any of these ways to travel. However, there is a major difference in the equipment needed on any trip. ]]> General Photography Discussion rpcrowe http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29229.htm File saving in the future, PSD or TIFF http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29228.htm Sat, 18 May 2013 15:06:21 GMT Now that Adobe has come out with Creative Cloud as the only option to use PS in the future, I am starting to wonder if I should start saving my new... Now that Adobe has come out with Creative Cloud as the only option to use PS in the future, I am starting to wonder if I should start saving my new files as unflatten TIFF and not as PSD files. It is a new concern seeing a PSD file is strictly a formatted to work on Adobe products. I currently use CS5 and it is doubtful I will subscribe to new C.C. What are your thoughts?
http://johndoddato.blogspot.com/ ]]> General Photography Discussion jad http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29228.htm Recognizing a diamond in the rough http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29222.htm Sat, 18 May 2013 03:16:03 GMT I was just thinking about part of Djoran’s original posting here; http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29161.htm

Let me repost the part that got me thinking here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DDK View Post
Is it better to get the best photo possible at the location and do as little post-processing as possible or is there a balance between the original image and later manipulation which delivers the best result? Where's Wally (just checking to see if you've read this far)?

Personally, I hope to do as little post-processing as possible to achieve the most 'natural' and 'real' result. When I see soft water and smooth clouds and blended colours or models with all their blemishes removed, I kinda think it's a waste of what is already beautiful to begin with. Then again, that could be naive inexperience talking :)
I remember reading somewhere that Michelangelo had said that he could see the sculpture in a piece of stone and all he did was to release it through his carving. I was thinking about the flip side of those questions in this context; and there are really two parts of my question here:

1. How do you know that you can you have an image that looks marginal coming straight out of the camera and know that you can turn it into a really compelling image in post-production? I’m thinking of more than the 2 minute job of minor tweaks, pre and post sharpening, cropping, etc. Rather it is recognizing that you have a “diamond in the rough” that can be turned into a real gem with a bit of work.

2. Do you every look at a scene and understand that it will not come out of the camera looking great, but then shoot it in such a way that you can unlock its potential in post? This could mean taking a number of shots of the scene, perhaps using HDRI or other post-processing techniques.


I’ll use one of the examples I posted in one of my earlier responses in the thread I’ve referred to:

This is the original image (actually one of several hand-held shots)







These were taken deliberately to produce this in post:




1. How do you recognize that you really have a real gem of a capture, in spite of what your initial reaction is when you see what appears to be a marginal, or even downright awful looking your image straight out of the camera?

2. Do you ever deliberately shoot a sub-standard scene or subject knowing that it is the best you can do, given the circumstances and that you can fix it in post and come up with something that is quite compelling? ]]> General Photography Discussion GrumpyDiver http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29222.htm Photos raise privacy issues. http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29207.htm Fri, 17 May 2013 11:13:06 GMT http://news.yahoo.com/nyc-artists-secret-photos-raise-privacy-issues-062729120.html;_ylt=AujicjM_oHdk.JITwMQwPg0JVux_;_ylu=X3oDMTIzZDdzZ3AzBG1pdANBVFQ... http://news.yahoo.com/nyc-artists-se...3BtaA--;_ylv=3 ]]> General Photography Discussion Carl in Louisiana http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29207.htm DigiCamControl http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29170.htm Wed, 15 May 2013 17:21:41 GMT I just downloaded a free program to control my Nikon D60. Just want to share that this is quite a comprehensive program and works with almost all the... I just downloaded a free program to control my Nikon D60. Just want to share that this is quite a comprehensive program and works with almost all the Nikon Cameras. The developers are trying to include Canons too. Hope you all can give this a try and give them some feedback. It's an open-source application. Great for HDR close-up work as my simple D60 don't have auto-bracketing this program is of great help.
http://digicamcontrol.com/ ]]> General Photography Discussion yauman http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29170.htm How much post-processing do you do? http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29161.htm Wed, 15 May 2013 00:36:08 GMT Firstly, I'd like to say two things before expounding on the thread title's question.

1) I'm posting it in this forum category because I felt it was more casually oriented than what the "Image Post-Processing & Printing" forum category seems to be like. If that is wrong, then apologies and if you're a mod, feel free to do the work you're not paid to do and move it :)

2) I have very little experience in this so if it's a naive or seemingly stupid question, forgive me. At least I'll learn something from it.

Ok, so, I'm curious to know just how much post-processing people do and what is considered too much or too little. At what point does an image cease to be 'real' and become 'fake'? Is it crafted from the very moment of clicking through framing, aperture, lenses, filters, colour correction, white-balance, etc.? Or is there a point at which an image loses its value due to over-manipulation? Is it better to get the best photo possible at the location and do as little post-processing as possible or is there a balance between the original image and later manipulation which delivers the best result? Where's Wally (just checking to see if you've read this far)?

Personally, I hope to do as little post-processing as possible to achieve the most 'natural' and 'real' result. When I see soft water and smooth clouds and blended colours or models with all their blemishes removed, I kinda think it's a waste of what is already beautiful to begin with. Then again, that could be naive inexperience talking :) ]]> General Photography Discussion DDK http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29161.htm Pointers for shoot...? http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29157.htm Tue, 14 May 2013 19:59:07 GMT Hello

I am relatively new to photographing with a DSLR. I have a Nikon D5000 and just bought a "nifty-fifty". A friend asked me if I would mind taking some photos of her (she is 8 months pregnant), her husband and their two black labs. They live on a mixed farm (beef cattle and apple orchards) and are very laid back, casual people. Both are paramedics....

Looking for any pointers re : shooting set-ups, time of day, things to be careful of...etc :)))

Thanks
Joanne ]]> General Photography Discussion boulderwood http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29157.htm Rubbish weather? Get thee to a forestry! http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29147.htm Tue, 14 May 2013 10:13:27 GMT It has been really cold and wet here so far this year as across much of the UK. However I find that woodland photography despite being awkward in... It has been really cold and wet here so far this year as across much of the UK. However I find that woodland photography despite being awkward in respect of it being difficult sometimes to see the woods for the trees is forgiving of poor weather photography. The bluebells photo (Learmount Forest)was taken during light rain and the leafy shot (Ness wood country park) was taken between hail showers. Both at woods near where I live.
Attached Images
]]> General Photography Discussion KennyF http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29147.htm Family Portraits with Adult Children (Poses?) http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29111.htm Mon, 13 May 2013 02:54:52 GMT I have a photoshoot tomorrow evening with a family of four - two parents and two adult daughters. I'm looking for posing ideas with the four of them. Does anyone have any good recommendations for pose variety?? ]]> General Photography Discussion ConstellationX http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29111.htm Controlling ISO with Canon 5d http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29106.htm Mon, 13 May 2013 01:16:35 GMT I recently bought a Canon 5d mark III with the standard kit lens (24-105). I am not a very experienced photographer and so I have been confronted... I recently bought a Canon 5d mark III with the standard kit lens (24-105). I am not a very experienced photographer and so I have been confronted with a steep learning curve but I think I am making reasonable progress.

For most of the photographs, I have been using the P mode with single point spot focus, which seems suitable for what I have been doing. I can still adjust the balance between shutter speed and aperture. The automatic choice seems to lean towards the maximum aperture. Perhaps the algorithm thinks that because I am using spot focus I don't mind having a small depth of field but there are times when I do. It also seems to choose the minimum ISO speed that it thinks it can get away with, which leaves little room to manoeuvre. This seems unnecessary since the ISO speed can be reasonably high before there is any problem with noise.

My question is: How can I adjust the ISO speed to make it higher in these conditions? It is possible to set a minimum ISO speed which would probably do the job but this seems a bit too complicated if I want to vary it from one shot to another. Is there some better strategy which would do everything I need? ]]> General Photography Discussion TonyW http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29106.htm Exposure - Single Colour Photos - What to look for in a histogram http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29101.htm Sun, 12 May 2013 20:28:35 GMT When one is taking a photo of a single coloured object, say a red flower (it could also be a green or a blue flower ) what should one look for in the... When one is taking a photo of a single coloured object, say a red flower (it could also be a green or a blue flower ) what should one look for in the histogram? In the RGB graph and the single channels (blue, green or red) And in the luminosity graph?

For example in the case of a red flower, I would expect that I should look for the histogram to cover the entire base of the graph with no clipping on either end, with the central portion of the histogram at the middle or towards the right... Since red is a primary colour do the blue or green channels matter at all? And if it was a blue flower do the green and red channels matter at all?

Then again I'd have to assume that it was a pure blue or a pure red flower that I was photographing and that is likely not correct.

And what about green? ie yellow and blue make green but our cameras don't have a histogram showing yellow.

Thank you. ]]> General Photography Discussion Christina S http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread29101.htm